I left Portland in the middle of
September, a few weeks after the Ferguson-related protests had
subsided. Got back just days before the verdict. While I was away,
I was traveling around and between 22 US states and 2 Canadian
provinces, from west to east, north to south.
I hadn't done a driving tour around the
country for years, and on a whim last spring, I decided I should try
doing one again. On the financial front it was a reminder of why I
stopped doing it that way years ago. It was also a reminder of how
big, how beautiful, how ugly, how empty, how crowded, and how diverse
the country is. How rich, how poor, how pristine, how ravaged.
In downtown Portland I rented a shiny
new black Toyota Corolla at Hertz, unlimited mileage multimonth
rental, as they call them. The car had Texas plates, randomly,
though I was renting it in Oregon. In the eyes of the world, a Texan
driving around North America. Always interesting to try to gauge to
what degree other drivers and passersby are reacting to you based on the
point of origin of your license plates. As the Texas ebola scare
mounted in intensity in the constant news broadcasts, the fact that
the plates were having an impact was indisputable.
The first gig on the tour was close to
home, just south of Portland a ways in the small city of Corvallis.
The gig was actually fairly representative of most of the gigs on my
nine-week tour, during which I had around five shows each week.
There were two or three dozen people at the cafe as my fading memory
recalls. Lovely folks, mostly the usual suspects, the guys and gals
you'd see at the peace vigils or a protest for universal health care.
I wasn't the youngest person in the
room, but I was definitely within the younger set in the
establishment, at 47. It was a benefit, and ended up paying this
working musician something along the lines of the average gig on this
tour – about half of what I try to get for a gig. These days
there's only one place where I consistently make what I aim to make
on a gig or a tour. Luckily it's a big place, called Europe.
(Particularly the wealthier, more northern, more English-speaking
part of the region.)
That night I went back home to
Portland, and when I left town the next day, I wouldn't see it again
for nine weeks.
I had no gigs in Washington, Idaho, or
Montana, but if you're driving, you go through all those states on
your way east with or without gigs in them. Stopped for lunch in a
town called Winthrop, which was clearly very self-consciously trying
to maintain its historic, all-wood old west look, and succeeding.
Even the sidewalks are made of planks of wood, and you can easily
imagine the horses tied up to them throughout the day.
Spent the night in Twisp, another
historic old west kind of town, though not as OCD as Winthrop in
terms of the enforcing of historic building codes. There's some
concrete in Twisp along with the aging planks of wood. Caught up a
wee bit with Danbert Nobacon in the form of house guest. Here's a man
who has done a lot of touring. Though much less in recent years,
living out in the lovely, peaceful boonies.
Mostly peaceful. Driving east out of
town the next morning after a praiseworthy breakfast sandwich at the
Twisp Bakery, the recent, massive forest fires were very evident.
Miles of black, burnt trees, looking like charcoal, upon black earth,
a surreal landscape. Oftentimes smoke was rising, very visibly
white, rising around the black trunks. Getting out of the car, the
ground was warm, though the weather was not.
Without gigs, just driving through the
vastness of Idaho and western Montana, it was good to be in those
wide open spaces again, but there's an emptiness about it when you're
not stopping to see people and do things. From coast to coast, north
to south, from the beginning of the tour until the end, a constant
feature of traveling on the highways of the United States were the
mile upon mile of impossibly long, slow trains literally overflowing
with coal, transported in open cars, along with mile after mile of
trains full of huge tanks of oil or whatever variation of liquid fuel
they contained.
The oil boom is all around you in so
much of the country. Like everywhere in Wyoming. I had something
resembling a series of gigs there, in the form of being the musical
component of three stops on the campaign trail of a cowboy
hat-wearing ex-priest named Charlie Hardy.
Charlie wasn't just any ex-priest from
Wyoming. He had spent eight years living in a cardboard box in
Caracas, Venezuela in the impoverished barrios. He was there when
Chavez came to power, saw first-hand the positive impact of the new
government on the people there. He wrote a book about his time there
called Cowboy in Caracas which I want to read.
Charlie had gotten the Democratic
nomination for Senate in Wyoming. I normally don't associate with
Democratic politicians, since their basic MO is to act progressive in
order to get the votes of the progressive majority, and then
systematically stab us all in the back afterward. But in Wyoming,
being a Democrat is only a bit less offensive than being a member of
Al-Qaeda. Most people there don't remember the last time a Democrat
represented Wyoming in the Congress.
Charlie's campaign had inspired people
before it even started. I heard about it from his campaign manager,
Bruce Wilkinson, who I knew from years before, when he was a student at
Evergreen State College in Olympia. Bruce met Charlie in Venezuela,
and followed him back to Wyoming, via Olympia, where he picked up the
rest of Charlie's campaign staff, all former Evergreen students.
Other folks came from California to live on the campaign trail with
Charlie and his gang (alternately known as “Charlie's Angels” or
“the Hardy Boys,” depending) and make a documentary about the
campaign.
At a pub in Lander I managed to offend
an entire table full of young men who had been enjoying my set well
enough until I mentioned foreign policy. Some of those huffing off,
I guessed, had been in the military, and had managed to preserve a
bit of that patriotic fervor that Americans are reputed to possess in
large quantities.
All five of my fans in Wyoming live in
Laramie, and two of them drove all the way to Casper from Laramie to
catch the event there, which took place in a cafe where the barista
refused on principle to not put frozen yogurt in my smoothie. That
evening me and the campaign staff were put up by the manager of a
small, independent motel, in a couple of the available rooms. Most
of the other rooms were being rented on a weekly basis by oil workers
from all over the country, especially places with a history of oil
booms themselves, like Texas. Several of the vehicles were pickup
trucks with oil equipment of one kind or another in the back. One of
the vehicles was a broken-down car, looked like it was mainly held
together by rope and tape, and the motel resident who owned the sorry
wreck was being kicked out, presumably for being in arrears.
I was smoking a roll-up
cigarette when an oil worker from Arkansas who spoke a
barely-intelligible form of Arkansan English came to join me. We
just shot the shit there on a concrete bench on the grass talking
about Wyoming and Arkansas and the Ozark drug trade. It occurred to
me after he went back to his room that perhaps the reason why our
conversation drifted toward the drug trade was because he thought I
was smoking a joint and he wanted a hit of it. Either he realized it
wasn't a joint, or I finished my cigarette, I don't remember which.
The third and final campaign stop was a
bit anticlimactic. It took place in a local espresso chain, which
made good espresso. Which is always nice, especially if you're an
espresso snob. There may not be much decent food to be found in the
state of Wyoming, but at least there's good coffee. Good coffee or
no, only one person showed up for the event, which then just didn't
happen.
The guy who turned up was one of the
few hardcore Democrats in the town of Gillette, the home town of
Charlie's very Republican competition, whose main campaign strategy
was just to ignore the fact that there was any opposition and hope
not too many people hear about it. That night, another motel full of
oil workers.
I can't remember the last time I had
been in South Dakota. Wyoming is remote, but I had been there on a
number of occasions over recent years, even without doing the big
driving tours around the country anymore. Mainly because Laramie is
only a couple hours' drive from Denver, Colorado, and Boulder –
progressive hot spots, cities with money in them, the typical
combination that seems to be required for me to manage to frequent a
place.
But South Dakota, it's just not near
anywhere like that. I barely remember the last time I had a gig in
Rapid City, and I don't recall ever having a gig anywhere else in
South Dakota. Most of the time I've passed through there it's been
on tours like this one, without a gig in the state, going through
there because it's slightly more attractive than North Dakota, where
I also never have gigs. Though mostly because it's more on the way
to the first “official” gig on the tour, a house concert in a
small town in Iowa, where I sang for a crowd of five, including the
host and her teenage daughter. But they were five progressive folks
who had not all met each other before, so it seemed like a good thing
was happening that sleepy evening.
Minneapolis always feels like coming
home. Good food, good espresso. Housing and work collectives all
over the place, dreadlocks everywhere, memories of protests, and a
large concentration of my favorite anticapitalists anywhere.
I heard
some stories I had never heard before on this visit. Or maybe I had heard
them before but it had been long enough for me to have forgotten
them. Like the one about the police infiltrator who attempted to
become a supporter of the Minnehaha Free State and barely got out of
there without shitting his pants.
Spent an evening with a man I used to
know as Marshall Law. I was told he had kept in touch with everybody
from the Free State better than anyone. Sure enough, to all of my
“do you know what happened to so-and-so” questions, he had a
ready answer. At least half of them now have kids my daughters age
or older. Which, I was increasingly realizing, was probably a big
part of the explanation for why my US audiences in particular were
either in their twenties or in their sixties (mostly the latter).
Because everybody in between is too busy working and raising kids,
and they mostly can't afford childcare, and work too many hours, like
Americans do.
The vast majority of the gigs I've ever
done in Minnesota have either been in Minneapolis or St Paul. There
are other towns in the state, including college towns that I vaguely
recall playing in back in the days when I used to get college gigs on
a regular basis. This trip was taking me to the town of Red Wing,
however, basically to do a house concert in a small book store. Book
stores, an ever scarcer and lovelier little marginal phenomenon, a
little reminder of how things used to be, in those four centuries
between the rise of the printing press and the rise of the internet.
I knew nothing about Red Wing except
that Bob Dylan had written a song about the prison in it. I asked
the twenty or so people assembled in front of me at the book store if
they had heard Dylan's song, and the vast majority of them had not.
Which was mind-blowing in itself. I sometimes forget that other
people aren't me, and everybody else didn't go through a Dylan phase
like I did, obsessively searching and listening intently to every
word of every song.
Another day, another book store. This
time a very big one, comparable in size to a small Barnes &
Noble, or maybe a large one. The first chunk of the drive from Red
Wing to Viroqua was on Highway 61. More Dylan. There was a song
about that highway, too. Not much of a highway, either. Mostly two
lanes. Which is much more personable than four or six, no doubt. I
imagine more songs have been written about smaller roads.
Driftless Books is the name of the book
store in Viroqua. Run by a guy named Eddie, who was a friend of my
friend Brad Will, who was originally from Wisconsin, and passed
through fairly regularly. The book store is an old tobacco
warehouse, like so many of the buildings in the town, most of which
seem to be abandoned. There are thousands and thousands of books,
but still plenty of room among the multitude of shelves to have an
array of wild, big metal sculptures of all sorts, and a bank of
tricycles for all the little ones to ride around in on the broad
expanses of waxed wooden floorboards.
It was a quality crowd there, with a
lot of prison time to add up between some of the long-term antiwar
activists present on those chairs. Which was possibly even more the
case among some of the veteran organizers among the crowd in Madison,
the iconic home of the student movement, and still the home of
several dozen large housing collectives left over from that period,
and going strong. Home in more recent years to the Wisconsin Spring,
home to the capitol building where Governor Walker resides. (Who won
reelection in Wisconsin on the same day that Charlie Hardy lost to
his opponent in Wyoming.)
A very nice man had driven up to
Madison from the Chicago area to hand me a check for $3,000, to help
keep me going. That's the only time that's ever happened. The
timing was amazing, given the number of gigs that basically barely
paid more than expenses. By the end of the tour, counting up
expenditures vs proceeds and all that, I figured that well over half
of the actual earnings from the tour came from that one generous (and
hopefully gainfully-employed) man from Chicago.
In the backyard of the house where the
house concert was going to take place in the western suburbs of
Chicago, I found out that my host, Brian, used to be a cop, and then
decided that he wanted to actually help people and being cop wasn't
entirely working out that way, so became a firefighter instead. When
Hurricane Katrina hit New Orleans, Brian and a bunch of his fellow
Chicago firefighters got in their fire trucks and drove them down to
Louisiana, along with supplies. While attempting to put out fires,
which were rife, despite the fact that the city of full of water,
Brian began to realize that hardly anyone was even attempting to feed
these people, and the supplies that firefighters had brought in from
places like Chicago were about all a given neighborhood had to eat.
Heading toward Louisville was where I
started seeing signs for St Louis, which is a few hours' drive to the
west on i-64. Throughout the tour, Ferguson was regularly in the
news. I would have loved to make another visit to that troubled
American town. But I was on my way to another one of them, a city
itself well-known for police brutality and a yawning gap between the
rich and poor.
It was a small crowd at the infamous
Rudyard Kipling pub, restaurant and music venue, which was under new
management from the last time I was there. Nice folks. I'd had some
great gigs there before. As with so many other gigs, this one was
nice but underwhelming in terms of attendance, or any kind of sense
of optimism among those who showed up. Despite all the protests
going on all over the country against police excesses these days, it
doesn't feel like an optimistic period. JP Wright did a very long
opening set, which was entertaining, though he talked a lot between
songs about the importance of labor unions, and I wondered how many
people in the small crowd had anything to do with them. So few
people do in the US these days. But JP is an enthusiastic Wobbly,
which is certainly a fine thing to be.
I always notice when crossing state
lines how all of a sudden the vast majority of the license plates you
see are from whatever state you just crossed into. All those cars
rolling down the highways, and at least 90% of them seem to be on
fairly local business. There are exceptions to this rule. For
example, if you're driving south on I-95, especially in winter,
you'll see lots of license plates from all over the east coast of
both the US and Canada, heading toward their vacation at Disneyworld
or wherever else they're going in Florida.
Traverse City, Michigan, was clearly
another one of those places. The contrast between Benton Harbor,
where I spent the night on my way to northern Michigan, and Traverse
City, couldn't be much more stark.
Benton Harbor is one of the many cities in
the USA where you can buy a nice house for $25,000 or less. Despite
its reputation for being the home of one of the biggest urban riots
in recent memory, it's a lovely little town right on Lake Michigan.
But the Whirlpool washing machine factory closed long ago, and
there's no work. Tourists on their way to enjoy the natural beauty
of the lake don't stop in Benton Harbor. I did, if only to spend the
night at another Motel 6. The only person I met from the town on
this trip was the receptionist, who was so friendly that I wondered
if she might be trying to compensate for the town's reputation as a
riot-prone, impoverished, dangerous place. If so, she succeeded.
But I didn't think ill of the town in the first place, so I needed no
convincing.
In Traverse City, on the other hand,
you'd be hard-pressed to find poverty, or even very many people who
grew up in Michigan, judging from the folks I met, anyway. It's a
quaint, attractive little city full of white people dripping with
privilege. Looking around at the fancy cars lining the streets,
people have driven there from all over the country to enjoy what
northern Michigan has to offer. Some have been spending the warmer
months in their second home, before heading south for the winter.
Others have come to go sailing in their sailboats, while others have
come for the cultural offerings. TC is the home of Michael Moore
these days, and there's a bustling scene for film aficionados.
My gig there was in a function room in
a fancy hotel. I was the musical component of a local Green Party
meeting. No one came to the show aside from local Green Party
members, one of whom subsidized my appearance, I'm happy to say.
While the actual meeting was taking place, I was mostly hanging out
on a comfortable chair in a nearby hallway, observing the festivities
of the evening in the nearby ballroom, which involved hundreds of
high school students having some kind of dress-up event.
The boys were wearing jackets, and the
girls were wearing some variety of glittery, tight, short dresses and
high heels. I tried to be inconspicuous as I watched the
proceedings. It was easy to tell which of the girls were accustomed
to dressing up like that, which ones were used to walking in heels,
and which weren't. Every now and then I'd see a kid who didn't want
to dress in a suit or a skimpy sparkling dress, and they all looked very out of
place. I figured there were probably many more like them, but mostly
those who didn't want to play the part, and didn't go to the ball in the
first place. Those were the kinds of kids that I hung out with when
I was a teenager – the rejects, the self-exiled.
It was my first visit to Detroit since
the city declared bankruptcy and started shutting off the water in
thousands of impoverished homes. Right there next to the lake, but
no running water in their homes. It didn't take long to be reminded
of the battle for survival taking place in that god-forsaken
metropolis.
In the church where me and my fellow rabble-rousing
musical comrade, Anne Feeney, were holding court, big jugs of water
lined the walls. Along with being a place where religious services
were held every Sunday, this church was also a venue for cultural
events and a distribution center for bottled water. I learned later
that some of the water was being provided by trucks sent to Detroit
from nearby Windsor, Ontario – one of many good projects being run
by the activist group that calls themselves the Council of Canadians.
The church was also one I remembered from past visits to Detroit,
such as when the US Social Forum was held there, during which time
the church was a focal point for USSF activities. Buttons bearing
the ubiquitous slogan, “hands up, don't shoot” were being handed
out.
Soon after the show was over it was
time to rush off to the radio station where local legend Peter Werbe
has been hosting a talk show every Sunday night since 1960 or so.
Few people would guess that Werbe is now well into his seventies,
since he very effectively maintains his youthful appearance by being
an avid squash player, and by successfully avoiding the grind of more
typical forms of employment, having actually managed to make a living
as a local radio host for his entire adult life, since his early days
as a student activist and founder of the now-venerable anarchist
newspaper, the Fifth Estate.
During the course of Peter's
two-hour-long talk show I sang songs and we discussed world events.
Apparently, very little of what either us or Peter's co-host, Juline
Jordan, said was controversial to their listeners, judging from the
silence of their call-in lines. That all changed when I suggested
that I was in favor of neighborhood committees run by local women
controlling all the firearms of each neighborhood, and only allowing
anyone to have them if there was some kind of invasion going on or
other legitimate reason for a well-regulated militia to become
active. My version of gun control did not impress many listeners,
who called in to talk about how much they love their guns, and their
gun-toting fathers. Loving your gun and loving your dad seem to go
hand-in-hand for many gun enthusiasts. Maybe I'd feel the same way
if I weren't raised by pacifists who had never touched a firearm in
their lives, I thought.
My one-night visit to Pittsburgh the
next day included dinner with Anne Feeney there in her home town, at
a local restaurant run by a woman from Syria. The food was amazing,
very reminiscent of my brief time in the Middle East nine years ago.
I recognized the music they were playing. The legendary Lebanese
singer known by the one name, Feyrouz. The young man who was waiting
on the tables wasn't Arab and didn't know Feyrouz. The owner of the
place was there, though, and she and I struck up a conversation about
Arabic music, which quickly turned to politics, and Syria.
There are certain places in the world
where you can't just smile and say “that's nice” when you ask
someone where they're from and they tell you. One of those places is
the shattered, war-ravaged nation of Syria. Like all Syrians I've
ever met, the woman just wished everything could go back to how it
was before the war. She said what so many say, that she wasn't a big
fan of Asad, but she was a big fan of peace, as well as free
healthcare and free education.
Upon mentioning healthcare and
education, the conversation swung toward domestic politics. The
woman told me about when she first came to Pittsburgh, 15 years
before, and how shocked she was by the degree of poverty in the city.
She said it's gotten worse since then. She said she was surprised
that with all the wars the US fights around the world, the spoils of
war clearly don't make it to the average resident of Pittsburgh, who
would overall live better in Syria under Asad, before the war.
One of the reasons we ate out, rather
than at Anne's place, was that her fairly sizable house was jammed
full of Crush Corbett propaganda. She had had the idea a few months
ago to do a tour around the state of Pennsylvania whose intention it
would be to make sure the incumbent governor would meet defeat at the
upcoming election. Though not a fan of the mainstream Democrat
opposition to Corbett, Anne felt she had to do something to express
her disgust with Corbett, who, among his many distinctions, was
opposed to even taxing the corporations such as Halliburton who are
so busily drilling for gas throughout the state and destroying the
lives and drinking water of millions of Pennsylvanians. While I
stood on the porch with Anne, one of her neighbors dropped by to ask
her for another Crush Corbett lawn sign, saying that the one she had
up before had been taken.
The next day was one of those days when
I really regretted not consulting a map more closely before booking a
gig. It was a seven-hour drive from Pittsburgh to Oneonta, New York.
A beautiful drive, though, through the mountains of Pennsylvania and
upstate New York. As with Pittsburgh, many of the residents of
Oneonta are actively involved with opposing the frackers and
pipeline-builders. Most of the members of my mostly older audience
of two dozen or so people fell into that category, and as is so often
the case, though the audience was small, the combined arrest record
of those in attendance was impressive.
I first met the organizer of the show
when she brought me to the college campus where she taught
communications, in Illinois. Since then she moved back to her home
state of New York, specifically upstate New York, which is, in the
minds of most of its residents, a place very separate from the
fast-paced megalopolis hundreds of miles due south, where the United
Nations holds sessions. At the time of my gig there, she was working
on the floor of a factory, having for years been unable to land any
other jobs in academia.
It was my first gig in Buffalo in many
years, though I had recently been to the city to visit friends, on my
way to a gig in Toronto. I was once again heading toward Ontario,
but this time the trip through western New York included a show in a
small, collectively-run institution called Burning Books, which has
clearly become a hub in that working class neighborhood. One of the
members of the collective had been the spokesperson for the Earth
Liberation Front, so the name of the store seemed very appropriate.
The shelves included one of the most impressive collections of
leftwing children's books I had ever seen. As with all the other
gigs I did on this tour at book stores, I bought several books for my
daughter before I left the place.
Later that evening I had another one of
many similar experiences as a reasonably respectable-looking,
short-haired, middle-aged white man in America. I was walking around
at 1 am, getting a little fresh air, when a police car was
approaching. At first I didn't notice it was a cop, and I paid it no
mind, and lit up the joint I had rolled for the occasion of my walk
around the block. Essentially while I was lighting the joint, the
cop stopped beside me, rolled down the window, and asked me if
everything was OK.
Yes, I replied, crouching down to look
him in the eye, joint in hand, blue smoke rising from its tip. He
rolled up his window and drove off.
Crossing into Canada the next day
involved the usual “go into that building and get in line A” that
I get every single time I try to cross that infernal border.
Middle-aged white guy or not, I'm on a watch list, so how I get
treated by Immigration authorities differs greatly from how I'm
treated by local cops who don't have easy access to that particular
database. But as usual since I started paying close attention to
only doing gigs that don't require a work permit, I made it into
Fortress Canada once again.
Just driving down the streets of
various towns and cities in Ontario, en route to Toronto, the
difference between Canada and the US would be impossible not to
notice for anyone with their eyes open. There is a distinctly less
desperate, less ragged look on the faces and in the demeanor of
people walking down the sidewalks. People are better-dressed, and
look less stressed. They have the look of people with access to
affordable healthcare and education. They look like people who get
more sleep, and generally only work one full-time job, rather than
two. The roads are a bit thinner, more European in appearance, and
there are no billboards. Every time I cross the border, I feel more
relaxed. Partly probably due to the fact that I had been worried
about whether I'd succeed in the effort, but also because of the
changed atmosphere on the other side.
My first gig in Canada was a house
concert in Toronto. The place was completely packed. The average
audience member could probably be described as over 60, of Jewish
lineage, and current or former member of the Communist Party of
Canada. Many were to one degree or another involved with the
Winchevsky Center in Toronto, and one of the last remaining
communist-run summer camps in North America, Naivelt
(Yiddish for “New World”).
The elderly couple whose home I was
singing in are folks who divide their time between Toronto and
Jerusalem, where they're involved with leftwing groups opposed to the
way the state of Israel treats Palestinians, just as they are
involved with such groups in Toronto, and have been for decades.
They were telling me about the first time they became involved with
opposing Israeli policies, in the early 1980's. They had long been
opponents of US imperial policies in Latin America, and were in
Guatemala as human shields, trying (with success) to protect
Guatemalan Indians from being killed by the military, by being with
them and being white and Canadian. One day they saw a sign at the
local post office about a protest folks were organizing against
Israel. Why Israel, here in Guatemala, they wondered? Because, it
turned out, Israel was very actively involved with arming and
training the Guatemalan death squads who were daily massacring the
Indians they had come to protect, that's why.
My second of two gigs in Ontario on the tour was in St Catharines, a town very close to Niagara Falls. It was my first visit to the town, and a lovely little gig with a youthful organizer and a youthful audience, in an art center with cool stuff on the walls and a library of old films. The gig featured the best opening act of the tour, hands down, in the form of the Niagara String Band. Except that only one member of the band showed up, but he was still the best opener on the tour. A fantastic, stoic, understated musician who had clearly listened to a lot of very old records in his life, I figured he might just be a fan of my friend Craig Ventresco, and it turns out he was not only a fan, but was just as blown away by Ventresco's virtuosity as I was. We geeked about about Craig for a while, unintentionally doing that in front of the audience, who were evidently waiting for me to get on the stage, rather than talk for ten minutes about an obscure musician no one else in the room had ever heard of.
My second of two gigs in Ontario on the tour was in St Catharines, a town very close to Niagara Falls. It was my first visit to the town, and a lovely little gig with a youthful organizer and a youthful audience, in an art center with cool stuff on the walls and a library of old films. The gig featured the best opening act of the tour, hands down, in the form of the Niagara String Band. Except that only one member of the band showed up, but he was still the best opener on the tour. A fantastic, stoic, understated musician who had clearly listened to a lot of very old records in his life, I figured he might just be a fan of my friend Craig Ventresco, and it turns out he was not only a fan, but was just as blown away by Ventresco's virtuosity as I was. We geeked about about Craig for a while, unintentionally doing that in front of the audience, who were evidently waiting for me to get on the stage, rather than talk for ten minutes about an obscure musician no one else in the room had ever heard of.
I always say that it is only the rare,
truly exceptional organizer who manages to attract a truly diverse
audience to a gig. Normally, if the organizer is, say, white,
Jewish, and over 60, most of the audience will be white, Jewish, and
over 60. If the organizer is a middle-aged Syrian communist, most of
the audience will be middle-aged Syrian communists. If the organizer
is a Francophone student activist, most of the audience will be
Francophone student activists. Thus was the case at my show in
Montreal. (And I'm not complaining either!)
It was exciting for me to discover on
another visit to Montreal that there were significant numbers of
Francophones there who knew my music. Several of them came to a show
I did there the year before. Normally, my audiences in Montreal were
either Anglophone or Arab in past years, but this time it was mostly
Francophone. Lucky for me, unlike in other French-speaking places in
the world (such as France), English fluency among Francophones in Canada is
very high. Not surprising, since, to quote one of the organizers of
the gig (and one of the organizers of the student movement there more
broadly), Genevieve Cote, “we're pretty much surrounded by you
people.”
One of the folks at the gig was none
other than the Anarcho Panda himself, a philosophy professor who
became known to many when he started attending student-led protests
dressed up in a giant panda suit. Another in attendance was the
young, very punk woman who became famous in Quebec through the
unfortunate means of being savagely beaten by Montreal police. Many
Quebecers of all walks of life demonstrated in her support after that
incident. A couple nights after my show, I was a guest performer at
a night of locally-made independent short films as well as live
performers. One of the films was about her, and seeing this young
punk organizer get a standing ovation from hundreds of people packed
into a dome-shaped theater in the center of Montreal was very
touching.
Vermont in October was glorious, a wild
display of fall colors on the endless ranges of forested hills and
valleys. My gig there was in the small town of Plainfield, home to
the tiny institution known as Goddard College, along with a few
hundred residents, a couple of nice cafes, and a food coop. My show
was in the function room above the coop. It was quickly evident that
the organizer was highly competent. It was one of the larger
audiences on the tour, especially considering the size of the town.
A whole bunch of those in attendance had come from all over the small
state, and the age of the crowd ranged from young to old and
everything in between.
Several of those in the room were
active members of Rising Tide Vermont, and would soon be getting arrested for
sitting in in front of the governor's office, where they were
protesting against plans for a new pipeline.
Before the gig, I was busily on the
phone, trying to find housing for a friend visiting San Francisco
whose housing arrangements had just suddenly fallen through, so I
didn't get to spend much time with the organizer, who was an older
woman I was just meeting for the first time, named Crystal. During
the brief time I talked with her, I was very interested to find out
that she had been very much involved with Occupy Wall Street, which I
believe is how she first heard my music. After the Occupy movement
started fizzling out, she decided she wanted to record interviews
with people who were or who had been involved, all over the country.
So she spent a week taking a crash course in film-making, and then
set out to interview people all over the country.
I stayed in her lovely home in
Plainfield that night, though Crystal herself was staying elsewhere,
where she had things to do early the next morning. It was only when
I got to her home and saw books, CDs, DVDs, and other memorabilia
related to the great songwriter and musician, Warren Zevon, that the
penny dropped. Crystal's last name is Zevon, which had struck me as
unusual, but I never bothered asking her whether she was related to
Warren. Turns out she is Warren's widow. When he found out he was
dying, he asked her to write a book, which she did. I want to read
it... But then I thought, no wonder it was a very well-organized
gig, if the organizer was the former partner of a very professional
musician.
There was a DVD, which I also want to watch, about the making of Warren's last CD, which reminded me of the one Warren Zevon concert I attended, along with several hundred other people packed into a basement dive bar in Northampton, Massachusetts in the mid-90's, which was presumably one of his last live concerts. He played solo, but he used a looping device, brilliantly, so he could play guitar solos on top of the rhythm parts which he was also playing. One of the most memorable things about that show was the fact that it started more than two hours late, because the piano was out of tune, and Warren wouldn't go on stage until the venue owners got the thing tuned up. This meant that the opener did a two-hour-long opening set, rather than the usual twenty minutes or so. He wasn't very good, which might not have been a big deal except that it was hot in there and there were no seats, so it was a long time to stand around waiting for something to happen.
There was a DVD, which I also want to watch, about the making of Warren's last CD, which reminded me of the one Warren Zevon concert I attended, along with several hundred other people packed into a basement dive bar in Northampton, Massachusetts in the mid-90's, which was presumably one of his last live concerts. He played solo, but he used a looping device, brilliantly, so he could play guitar solos on top of the rhythm parts which he was also playing. One of the most memorable things about that show was the fact that it started more than two hours late, because the piano was out of tune, and Warren wouldn't go on stage until the venue owners got the thing tuned up. This meant that the opener did a two-hour-long opening set, rather than the usual twenty minutes or so. He wasn't very good, which might not have been a big deal except that it was hot in there and there were no seats, so it was a long time to stand around waiting for something to happen.
On the way through New Hampshire,
getting a tank of gas, the woman behind the register commented on my
Texas plates, and said that the whole state of Texas should be
quarantined. She was commenting on ebola, and the fact that one or
two cases of ebola had occurred in Dallas. It was fairly evident
which TV news channel she had been glued to for years.
Oddly enough, though I lived in Boston
for many years and know lots of people there, it was Boston that had
the distinction of being the town where I had the smallest audience,
at least among the gigs that actually happened. If I recall
correctly, there were six people in attendance, including the
organizer, my sister, and my sister's boyfriend. And then after the
gig, while spending the night at my sister's house in Jamaica Plain,
someone stole two of my rental car's hubcaps.
It's amazing what two stolen hubcaps
can do in terms of appearances. Suddenly I was no longer driving a
spiffy new Toyota. I was now driving a car with missing hubcaps.
Cars with missing hubcaps, even when new, have a distinctly illicit
appearance. From that day on I felt slightly self-conscious, like
the next cop I saw would not think “respectable-looking middle-aged
white man” when he saw me, but something more along the lines of
“potential meth dealer in a potentially stolen vehicle.” Though
I still never got pulled over, so I must not have looked too
suspicious...
Lack of adequate publicity may have
been the primary reason for low attendance at the Community Church of
Boston, but at the time it felt more like a statement, an expression
of the sorry state of the Left in the US today. A European friend
who has seen me in action on both sides of the Atlantic commented
recently that I'm making a living off of an anemic, dying social
movement. She added that she's impressed that that's even possible.
I often think the same things. Now and then there's a brief revival
of some kind of spirit of civic responsibility in different parts of
society – the current protests against racism and police brutality,
Occupy Wall Street a couple years ago, and before that, the brief,
massive groundswell of protest in favor of the rights of so-called
immigrants, and before that the antiwar movement during Bush's first
term and the anticapitalist movement at the end of Clinton's reign.
But mostly in my adult life, and most especially in recent years,
anemia. My job as I see it is to be a cheerleader for those who are
trying to make a difference, but sometimes it's hard to know how to
maintain an appropriately optimistic demeanor, which I always figure
a good cheerleader needs to possess.
In Connecticut, the state I grew up in
and lived in as an adult for many years as well, I had no gigs.
Which was fine, because that gave me a little more time to visit
family. I often get the impression that the internet, as an
organizing tool, has largely been killed by social media and the
narcissism and individualism it propagates. But to be sure, there
are lots of people paying attention to the internet, and there is
lots of possibility to get a giant share of that attention if you
play your cards right. Writing original songs about politics might
not be the ticket, but evidently making really fun Lego animations based on Spongebob Squarepants episodes every Friday is.
A couple years ago, after visiting my
family in Connecticut, I was in a toy store somewhere or other. In
addition to finding puppets I thought my daughter would enjoy, I also
came across a book about how to do stop-motion animation with a
computer that was oriented toward kids. I don't want to take credit
for it, but not too long after that, my nephew Lorenzo started making
these Lego animations and putting them up on Youtube. After just
over a year of putting up these animations every Friday, Lorenzo has
gotten more than 17 million views. During my visit to Connecticut I
helped him monetize his site, which I'm hoping will allow him to buy
a new car or something when he turns 16 in a few years...
I had a wonderfully surreal gig at a
little bar in Long Island that involved a US flag on the outside,
bikers and members of Veterans for Peace on the inside, along with a
handful of folks from the city who came to attend the one gig I had
that was in the area of New York City, along with my dad, who I drove
there with from Connecticut.
Luckily I had brought ear plugs with
me, which I gave to my dad. There was an opening band at the gig
doing 60's covers, featuring a very talented rock & roll lead
guitarist, and a volume level appropriate for the style of music. I
did my usual thing, and was constantly expecting to offend one of the
bikers, wondering what might happen if I did, but to my great
pleasure, that never happened. Some of them were talking during the
set, and even watching football, with the volume on. I asked the
bartender if he'd turn the volume off, which he did, though he seemed
surprised by the request. The woman doing the sound was very
appreciative of my songs, and clearly friends with the bikers sitting
at the bar. I thought she probably really did like the music, but I
wondered if the level of enthusiasm she demonstrated was partly for
the bikers, just to make sure they knew that she liked the music, and
hoped that they would, too. Or maybe I don't get bikers, with their
leather vests, crosses, American flags and eagle tattoos. Maybe lots
more of them would appreciate antiwar and pro-immigration musical
themes if I played in biker bars more often, I don't know.
I picked up a spiffy 12-page calendar
to hang on my wall back home at the gig in Philadelphia, a calendar commemorating the 100th anniversary of the death of the great IWW organizer and songwriter, Joe Hill. It was a small but
respectable crowd in a church that is clearly a focal point of the
local community. While I sang, children were taking a karate class
downstairs. Which you had to walk through in order to get to the
bathroom, so everybody had a chance to check it out up close.
The show at a college in Maryland was
well-attended, in large part probably because the students got extra
credit for showing up. The Hungarian guy who set up the sound system
was a fan of the current president of Hungary, which was interesting.
I had never met a fan of the Hungarian president, who is widely
vilified as a power-hungry proto-fascist who hates gypsies whenever
he is mentioned in the western media. This guy said the new
Hungarian government is standing up to the big banks, which, he said,
is why he's so vilified by the western press. Makes me curious to
find out more. Especially since I'm now qualified for Hungarian
citizenship, since one of the things the new government there has
done has been to make it easier for people in the Hungarian diaspora
to get citizenship. (You now only need a direct Hungarian ancestor,
and he or she doesn't need to be a grandparent, like in most other
European countries. And you need to speak some Hungarian, but
apparently not much, from what I hear.)
My hosts in Maryland were not only the
parents of my dear friend Jenka Soderberg (currently news director at
KBOO community radio in Portland), but also brilliant intellectuals
(like Jenka, not surprisingly), and Jenka's mom is a Civil War
expert. Knowing that I had written a song about the abolitionist
warrior John Brown, she was kind enough to organize a day-long outing
for me and my family to Harper's Ferry, West Virginia, where John
Brown's disastrous effort to foment a slave revolt took place, and to
the farmhouse a few miles outside of town where Brown, his daughter,
sons, and twenty other abolitionists secretly plotted the raid for
months before it took place.
The old man who showed us around the
farmhouse was also very knowledgeable about the period, though not
quite to the level of our host, Susan. He thought John Brown was a
nutter who got what he deserved. Interesting guy, though, known only
as the Captain. Just fifty meters or so behind the farmhouse was a
somewhat more modern, square building which had once been the local
center of the chitlin circuit, where during the long decades of
Apartheid in America, black people gathered in their thousands and
danced to the music of James Brown, Little Richard, Ray Charles and
many others.
The building was a shambles, having
been mostly destroyed by a fire decades before, in an incident that
the Captain referred to as “Jewish lightning.” That is, the
owners of the building (whether they were Jews or not I don't know)
burned it down and claimed it was an accident, in order to collect on
the insurance. The Captain planned on restoring the building, though
from the looks of it, he and his comrades were in the early stages of
this endeavor.
There seems to be a rise in the number
of real progressives running for local office throughout the country.
Mostly losing, of course, but sometimes winning. In Washington, DC
I played at a benefit concert for the campaign of Eugene Puryear, a
member of the small Socialism and Liberation party, but running with
the backing of the DC Statehood Greens party, which seemed to be
providing most of his campaign support. It was easy to see why the
Greens would get behind this man. The speech he gave at the event
was eloquent, and the message was a clear rallying cry to fight the
class war. His platform, which appeared on his campaign banners and
posters, unlike so many political campaigns, where the posters say
nothing about the candidate other than what party he or she is in,
along with some word like “hope” or “change,” focused on two
things: rent control, and raising the minimum wage to $15 an hour.
Sometime after that event it occurred
to me that if you wanted to have a really succinct campaign platform,
especially in places like Portland, where the ballots only tell you
the name of each candidate and what office they're running for, you
could just change your name to something like Rent Control. (I'm
thinking about it...)
Roanoke, Virginia was another town
where putting a stop to the pipeline-builders was a major focus in
the community. One woman gave a model speech in which she talked
about how the route of the pipeline had been moved so that it no
longer presented a major threat to her property, but she was still
just as intent to stop it, saying “not in my backyard and not in
anyone else's backyard either.”
The show took place in a sort of common
space in a building with various businesses in it, including the
Compact Cinema, a very small room with a screen and projector in it.
Opening a micro cinema in the modern age seems about as sensible from
a financial standpoint as starting up a small book store. Even more
impressive, the owner, Ben Bristoll's intent with the operation is to
show educational documentaries.
From the time I entered western
Virginia, driving south to North Carolina and later into Tennessee,
the forested mountains of Appalachia were my lush surroundings. Most
of the towns are like Roanoke or Knoxville – struggling places
where you can buy a house for less than one-fifth what you'd pay in
Portland, where the mountains are beautiful, people are friendly, and
jobs are scarce.
Asheville is an exception to that set
of rules. Gentrification is rampant, housing is increasingly
expensive, and all those yuppies and hipsters moving in from all over
the country need servants, so there's work, if you don't mind earning
just enough to barely pay the rent, or living way outside of town. I
sang for the birthday party of a local progressive city councilor,
Cecil Bothwell, in the Grey Eagle, a music venue in which I've played
many times. Last time I remember playing there it was also organized
by Cecil, and brilliant local songwriter Chuck Brodsky was on the
bill along with me, singing to a packed house. This time the house
was decidedly less than packed, and Cecil came quite late to his own
birthday party, due to an unexpectedly long city council meeting that
he was very much obligated to attend. I know I have fans in
Asheville, but only a small handful of them were there, including one
old friend of Marius Mason. Sitting in the back, recording the gig
for posterity on a little video camera, was Ellen Thomas, a little
old women with long, braided white hair who had spent decades sitting
across from the White House every day, protesting the existence of
nuclear weapons, and eventually ended up in Asheville.
Knoxville featured another reunion for
me, with old friends who I had somehow lost touch with for many
years. There were other folks there I hadn't seen in a while, people
involved with the fight against the Y12 nuclear weapons factory in
nearby Oak Ridge, the once-secret city that cartographers weren't
allowed to put on the maps. These anti-nuke activists lost most of
the funding they used to get from institutional donors who decided to
stop funding such things after 9/11, so they don't fly me out to sing
at their annual protests anymore, but they're still plugging away,
trying to raise awareness of the existence of this factory, and its
devastating consequences for workers and people who live in the
surrounding area.
Before my gig at the Birdhouse
community center in Knoxville, a meeting was adjourning, involving
folks trying to do something to change the situation for the
immigrants and refugees in their midst.
My next gig on the tour, in Nashville, was organized in part by a kick-ass immigration lawyer involved with doing the same. It was another gig in a Unitarian church. I don't think much of the congregation was there, but it was a good crowd of peaceniks and others, including one who drove up from the Farm, and others who came from pretty far away as well. Being Nashville, Tennessee's only bustling metropolis and the country music capital of the world, the crowd also included at least a couple of musicians.
My next gig on the tour, in Nashville, was organized in part by a kick-ass immigration lawyer involved with doing the same. It was another gig in a Unitarian church. I don't think much of the congregation was there, but it was a good crowd of peaceniks and others, including one who drove up from the Farm, and others who came from pretty far away as well. Being Nashville, Tennessee's only bustling metropolis and the country music capital of the world, the crowd also included at least a couple of musicians.
It was a lonely Hallowe'en, bereft of
trick-or-treaters for me. No gig that night, just a travel day with
a stop for the night in some suburb of Little Rock, Arkansas, where
capitalism's best friend, Bill Clinton, once governed.
It was a long drive from Little Rock to
Dallas, Texas, but I got to the gig on time. Since I first met
Leslie Harris, some time around Camp Casey, she has very reliably
organized a show for me every time Dallas is in my tour plans, and
this tour was no exception. Everything this unflinchingly
enthusiastic Code Pinker organizes involves lots of good food – in
this case far more food than could possibly be eaten by the small
crowd of music fans and activists present for the house concert in
Leslie's daughter's dance studio. Two of the folks present had come
all the way from Oklahoma. One of the Oklahomans was a descendent of
John Brown's, so I had practiced the song to make sure it was good
and ready for the occasion. She had gotten in touch with me years
before, after I recorded the song in question, but this was our first
time meeting in person.
Leslie and a few others at the dance
studio ran off as soon as the show was over, to participate in a
protest against AIPAC, which was having a big convention at a fancy
hotel downtown. The protesters consisted of not more than a couple
dozen folks, almost all college students. Considering their small
numbers, they were very loud and boisterous, marching around the
hotel, chanting anti-Zionist slogans, holding very visible signs made
of LED lights, and even projecting an anti-Zionist slide show on the
wall of the building across from the hotel. According to my very
unscientific calculations, the protesters included among them one
person of Arab descent, which struck me as pretty depressing, given
that we were in Dallas – the fourth or fifth biggest city in the
US, with one of the biggest Arab populations in the country. I'm not
the first one to say it, but if Arabs in America supported
Palestinians as stridently as many Jews support Israel, Israel
wouldn't have a chance.
The next day I got up early and drove
across the city for what has become an annual pilgrimage to the
supermax prison-within-a-prison where Marius Mason and a whole bunch
of other wonderful people are serving out their outrageously long
prison sentences.
Unlike at so many prisons you hear
about, the guards and other prison employees are mostly friendly, but
nonetheless the conditions of imprisonment they are enforcing are
tortuous, and I don't mean that figuratively. After the long drive
the day before and then not sleeping enough, unfortunately I was
pretty shit company for Marius, half-sleeping through our visit,
sitting on either side of a plastic card table on plastic chairs in a
bleak room otherwise empty aside from a single potted plant, a large
poster featuring New York City's skyline, and a very bored-looking
guard, herself half-sleeping through our visit, sitting on another
plastic chair, in front of another card table.
As always, Marius is glad to see me,
and hungry for information and impressions from the outside world.
He keeps up on local, national and world news as best he can from in
there, listening to NPR, reading the Guardian Weekly, which my mother
has subscribed to on his behalf. If Dallas had a Pacifica station he
might be able to listen to Democracy Now, but no such luck.
Prisoners these days are allowed to have MP3 players, but they have
no access to podcasts. Only music they pay for – a million songs
Wal-Mart gives them paid access to, which not surprisingly do not
include any music by independent artists like me, despite the fact
that my music is registered with the various agencies that would make
accessing such music easy if Wal-Mart wanted to allow it.
Marius is well up on what various
progressive groupings have been doing since I last saw him. What's
lacking, it seemed to me, was perspective on just how big or how
active these groups are. On paper people can look impressive, but it
seems it's only when you're out on the streets that you can get a
real impression of how active a movement really is. I share my
fairly downbeat perspective on the state of the movement in the US
today.
A recent development in the saga of
Marius's imprisonment is that the prison officials have finally told
him why he was moved to the extremely restrictive supermax facility,
and what he would need to do for them to consider moving him
elsewhere and giving him more access to things like communicating
with the outside world, being able to play the guitar more than once
a week, etc. In no uncertain terms, finally they tell him that he
would need to cut off all communication with his activist friends,
which means all of his friends, pretty much. He tells me how now
that he knows this, he's dropping the idea of being moved, of
anything changing for the better, since this is a condition he
refuses to meet.
He talked about how hard it is not to
become hardened by years imprisonment, to maintain the essence of
one's humanity, and as the guards announce that our visit is over,
and they take Marius away, through the massive steel door and down
the hallway back toward his cell block, I can't help but notice that
for the first time as we're parting at the end of a visit, there are
no tears in his eyes.
It's a long drive from Dallas to
Houston, but I arrive early for tonight's gig at AvantGarden.
Houston is a flat, heavily-paved, unattractive city overall, but
within it are many places like AvantGarden that have created a
beautiful, artistic environment once you enter their property. It's
my first visit to this venue, and as soon as I park the car, I'm
greeted by a tall, beautiful woman. Regal, exuding warmth,
confidence, and a sort of no-nonsense orientation, dressed in
comfortable clothing with long, dark hair. Her accent tells me that
she's from somewhere in Latin America. My guess is Argentina, but I
don't ask.
It turns out she's the owner of the
venue. After brief introductions she says she's going out for a bit,
and will be back later. In the meantime she gives me the keys to the
place, on the assumption that I am who I say I am, and then she's
off.
I'm soon greeted by many familiar
faces. From early 2002 til early 2007 I more or less lived in
Houston, in a relationship with another regal South American woman of
European extraction with long dark hair, who would become the mother
of my daughter. I was on tour about three weeks out of four back
then, but the one free week each month would usually be spent in
Houston. Nathalie was very actively involved with the Green Party
back then, and as has often been the case at Houston gigs since 2002,
many of the folks who showed up were our old Green Party comrades,
along with others I met along the way.
Torry Mercer opened the night with his
band, Deconstruction Crew. Loud, political, fun music with a mix of
influences, chiefly folk and heavy metal. The music is good but the
sound system is distorted and basically pretty awful, for whatever
reason. When I took the stage I tried briefly to sing through it,
and abandoned the effort after the first song, and did an acoustic
show. I can't recall how many times this has happened. It's this
sort of thing that gives musicians like me the reputation of prima
donna, I imagine.
The gig in Austin at Monkeywrench Books is on Election Day.
Most people in the US stay home, and as usual when that happens,
Republicans are winning one election after another. If the Democrats
weren't just a sort of spineless reflection of the Republican Party,
perhaps people would bother voting. It's also raining hard,
something that doesn't happen often in Austin. The combination is
fairly predictable. The organizers had warned me in advance that
Election Day was a bad night to do a show, and I wished I had
listened to them.
I think there were eight people in my
audience that night, including three book store
volunteers, and my good friend Haithem El-Zabri. Seeing Haithem at
the gig was unexpected, since he had told me before he was showing a
film elsewhere that night. But no one turned up for his film
screening, so he came to my gig instead. For the first time in a
long time, dear friend and veteran organizer extraordinaire Lisa
Fithian was not in attendance, since she was preparing to leave for
Ferguson, Missouri the following morning.
The following day involved a long drive
from Austin to Lubbock. It was many years ago the last time I had a
gig in Lubbock. The venue I played in back then closed its doors for
good the following day. The oil boom has improved the Lubbock
economy since then, but not with the types of folks who would tend to
organize or come to one of my gigs.
The day after, another long drive, from
Lubbock to the town of Las Vegas, New Mexico. What was once a
peaceful drive across a very sparsely-populated, meditative desert
landscape had changed. Now the main characteristic of that stretch
of road was olefactory in nature. It stank. Oil drilling was going
on everywhere, and the road smelled bad throughout the drive.
Not surprisingly after that driving
experience, I soon found out that fracking was the big issue among my
friends and comrades in Las Vegas. Sadly, the fracking issue has not
only been one to motivate people to action, but has also been very
divisive, with some opponents to fracking campaigning for an all-out
ban on the practice, and others believing the more strategic
orientation is to create lots of legal obstacles to keep the frackers
from fracking, without actually banning the practice, fearing that a
ban would be overturned in the courts if it were imposed. Some of my
favorite people are on both sides of this strategic divide, and
although the concert at New Mexico Highlands University was far from
a washout, it wasn't as well-attended as past shows, and it seemed
pretty evident that the divide among the anti-fracking activists was
at least partially to blame for that.
Lodging for the night was provided by
the good folks who run an old (as in 19th century) hotel,
the Plaza Hotel, in the center of town. The center of Las Vegas, New
Mexico is laid out like towns in Mexico I've seen, with a big square
park in the middle, surrounded by shops, including the hotel. The
beautiful building had been recently restored back to its former
glory, and it would have been easy to imagine it was sometime much
earlier than 2014. According to the internet, one of the rooms in
the hotel is reputedly haunted, but there was no indication of the
ghost during my night there.
The drive north from Las Vegas to
Boulder, Colorado included a brief stop at the site of the Ludlow
Massacre, when the Colorado state militia opened fire on men, women
and children who were spending the freezing Colorado winter in tents,
having been kicked out of their company-owned housing, since they
were on strike at the mines where the men worked. Like other US
union-made memorials to such events, it's a strange combination of
labor history and some kind of patriotism. I guess the Colorado
militia were being unpatriotic when they massacred the miners, even
though killing miners is a longstanding American tradition that was
generally approved of at the highest levels of government for most of
this country's sordid history. Still a powerful place to visit,
regardless, and especially nice to see the union-related stickers
that so many visitors had put in various places at the memorial.
The friend I stayed with in Boulder was
struggling with a resurgent bout of cancer, something she's been
dealing with for years, like so many people I know these days. What
a gorgeous, though thoroughly gentrified city that is. Walk a mile
or so from the city center and you're in the Rocky Mountains.
The gig was at the Rad-ish Collective.
My main contact for the event was veteran organizer with the Boulder
Peace and Justice Center, Betty Ball, a tiny, big-hearted, ferocious
activist with a background in the environmental movement as well as
the peace movement in pretty much equal portions. She's getting
older fast and can barely walk, but she still kicks ass, figuratively
speaking. She was lamenting the fact that so many of the gigs I've
done in Boulder have mostly involved audiences significantly older
than me on average, and her strategy to do something about that was
very effective – she got a mostly student housing collective on
board.
When I got to the place, several folks
were working feverishly at building a ramp for the entrance, so that
folks in wheelchairs, or folks using walkers, like Betty, could get
in more easily. They didn't quite finish building the thing by the
time the event started, but almost. Inside, other people were
cooking up a vegan storm. One of the residents, whose abode was
actually a space beneath a staircase smaller than your average closet
but with a curtain for a door, was one of the initial organizers of
the protest on Occupy Wall Street protest in September, 2011, in New
York City which I was privileged to attend. A full three years after
the fact, he was apologizing for the fact that there was no sound
system at the protest.
The lack of a sound system at the
protest was because the organizers were concerned if they had one it
would be confiscated, or would give the police an excuse to go onto
the private property that is Zucotti Park and cause lots of problems.
The organizers had asked me to sing there, but when I got there and
found there wasn't a sound system, but that there were lots of other
people making all sorts of noise, including a full chorus of people
singing songs based on Lyndon LaRouche's bizarre conspiracy theories,
I opted not to get my guitar out, much to my regret later. In any
case, the lack of a sound system at that protest led quite directly
to the use there in New York and soon all over the world of the “mike
check” phenomenon, which wasn't an invention of that movement, but
certainly has come to be very much identified with it.
The first one or two hundred miles west
of Boulder, en route to Utah, is one long playground for the rich.
Ski resort after ski resort. An espresso addict's dream, with a
Starbucks at every exit, and a parking lot packed with SUVs. And
then all that abruptly ends, and there's a 100-mile stretch without
even a gas station. And you're in the barren, beautiful lands
settled by the families from the east coast who went to Utah under
the direction of their prophet, Joseph Smith.
Moab is another one of those lovely
towns in the desert populated largely by folks who could afford to
live in the middle of nowhere somehow or other, or people involved
with some aspect of tourism. There's a good bunch of folks in there
who were either inspired by Edward Abbey, or actually knew him
personally back when he was alive, and lived in the area. And the
friends and fans of Abbey have a lot to do in Moab these days, with
an all-new push on the part of rapacious corporations to open up a
new southern frontier for tar sands extraction.
The gig in Moab took place at KZMU Community Radio, a cute little building on top of a hill just outside
of the center of town. Finally I could utter the phrase, “in front
of a live studio audience” to the dozen or so folks in attendance,
and whoever was listening out there on the airwaves. One of the
members of the audience was the station manager. Given the number of
community radio stations that are struggling to stay in operation
(along with newspapers and other media), I asked the question I often
ask people like him – how's it going? Not well, essentially, due
to a new rule issued by the Corporation for Public Broadcasting.
I was surprised to learn that KZMU gets
the majority of its funding from the federal government, in the form
of the CPB. The station manager said he thought that percentage of
funding coming from the government was pretty unusual, but that a lot
of stations probably got more like a third of their funding from the
CPB. Well, the CPB's bizarre new rule is that any community station
that cannot raise $120,000 annually to pay for their operation will
no longer qualify for CPB funds. We could call this the official new
federal “screw the little guy” policy.
Another gorgeous drive the following
day through Utah's surreal landscape. Rock formations that look like
they were designed by an artist on a really good acid trip. Funny
that some of the most psychedelic landscapes in the country are in a
state run by Mormons. If ever there was a place where LSD-oriented
tourism could really take off, it would surely be Utah. But that
seems very unlikely. But who knows – pot's now legal for
recreational use in neighboring Colorado...
The second of my two gigs in Utah was
in St George, home of Dixie State University, which, as the name
would indicate, was founded by people who emigrated to southern Utah
from the Confederacy. St George made the news, at least locally, a
couple weeks before my arrival, because the organizers of a
Hallowe'en dance party were told that if anyone danced at the party,
the organizers would be charged with felony incitement to riot! Only
in Utah (or Saudi Arabia).
I was in St George in time for
Veteran's Day (Armistice Day to you Europeans), and although Dixie
State is not a hotbed of radicalism, it does have at least one
Marxist professor, who perhaps should best remain nameless lest I
inadvertently cause him to lose his job. Suffice it to say that the
state of Utah paid me to sing antiwar songs at a Veteran's Day event.
Which really pissed off at least one of the four veterans in
attendance.
The professor was going around in a
suit that looked very much like the outfit of some kind of priest.
There in Utah on Veterans Day I was inducted into the Church of
Universal Life as a minister. I also got a doctorate for good
measure.
San Diego featured a refreshingly
well-attended outdoor concert, a benefit for another struggling
community radio station, at another housing collective. In Upland,
another in a series of house concerts at the home of the longtime
activist, Marjorie Mikels. The second in her new home, since her
last one burned down in a fairly mysterious fire.
Since he was shot in the face by a tear
gas canister aimed directly at him at close range by an Israeli
soldier, Tristan Anderson has split his time between Berkeley and
Grass Valley, California. After he came out of the coma and
eventually left the Israeli hospital that was his home for a long
time after the IDF nearly killed him.
Berkeley is where he made his home
before being shot in Israel, and Grass Valley is where his parents
live. The show in Berkeley was organized by his longtime friends and
supporters. Yet another brilliantly well-attended gig organized by
those folks, and such a classic Berkeley scene, complete with a bunny
rabbit named Hiphop Palestine Bunny or something like that. This was
the second gig attended by the bunny and its human. The amount of
prison time served collectively by that audience would probably at
least equal the life of your average human altogether. There were
longtime Earth Firsters, Ploughshare activists, Occupy Wall Street
folks, Food Not Bombers, even a former Black Panther, along with a
bunch of folks campaigning busily to keep the Berkeley Post Office
from being turned into a mall.
Berkeley is one of those rare places,
along with New York City, where at any time in the past century,
right up to the present, you'd be forgiven for being under the
impression that the Left in the US is alive and kicking. Because in
those two cities it always is, even if that may not be the case
anywhere else, at least not with such consistency.
The crime rate in the big city of
Oakland was on display during my two nights there. Just after my old
friend there bragged to me about how with all the crime in the city,
no one messed with the mail, since it was federal property and
messing with the mail could end you up in prison for a long time, a
very expensive package that was waiting to be picked up got stolen.
(A few weeks later, in front of the same house, there was an armed
robbery of a high school student in broad daylight.)
The timing worked such that Tristan was
in attendance in both Berkeley and Grass Valley, melting the hearts
of all in attendance by singing along with my songs from his
wheelchair, using the side of his face that still functions to do so.
His singing ability and intellectual prowess continues to develop
and astound, demonstrating the incredible ability of the human brain
and human spirit to overcome some pretty horrific obstacles.
It was a poignant visit to Grass Valley
for me as well, since it was the first time back in the area for me
since the death of Utah Phillips, a man who meant a whole lot to me
as an artist and a human being. I paid a visit to the radio station
from which he used to broadcast his Loafer's Glory radio shows. The
last time I was in that station, Utah was standing behind me in his
signature blue overalls, praising my songwriting and bloating my ego
terribly. Afterward, having lunch with him and a couple other
friends, I was surprised to find that half the time I had no idea
what he was talking about, since I didn't recognize most of the hobo
terminology he used in everyday speech. I had previously figured
that he reserved that jargon for on the stage, only then realizing
that this was really how the man with the big white beard talked.
If those two northern California gigs
were two of the best ones on the tour, the next two were easily the
worst. Attentive readers may be noting that I said before that
Boston was the most badly-attended gig on the tour, which is true.
But that's only true because the two gigs that were to be the last
ones on the tour were so bad that they just didn't happen.
In the lovely town of Willits, where
you never ask anyone what they do for a living, because approximately
19 out of 20 people you might talk to are pot growers, it was
raining. The promoter of the gig had organized good gigs for me
before, but in this instance he was relying on a local Willits person
to spread the word, which never got spread. He showed up with an
assistant, and the owner of the venue was there, and that was it.
They put out a bunch of folding chairs, and a half hour later, put
them back in their stack and called it a night, as did I.
Reno was a fairly heroic clusterfuck.
The teenager who organized the gig knew who he wanted on the bill,
but that was apparently all he knew. How to promote a gig was not
his area of expertise, but putting together a good line-up may have
been. He managed to convince not only me, but two bands from the San
Francisco bay area and another local Reno band to come to this pub.
All the bands showed up as requested, with their vans and gobs of
sound equipment. The audience, however, did not. At all. I left,
spending the night in that surreal city full of gambling,
prostitution, alcohol, and not much else as far as the eye can see.
To top it off, I got food poisoning from eating a burger at a casino
restaurant. (All the restaurants are in casinos in downtown Reno.)
The next day involved a lot of bathroom
stops, and a night in a cheap motel in Klamath Falls, Oregon, just
over the border from California. The following day I spent the first
couple hours driving through a snowstorm in the mountains, very
nearly skidding off the road on one occasion, at which point I
discovered how to properly use the lower gears in my automatic rental
car. Which worked really well, I might add.
It was smooth sailing up the i-5 once I
got back on it. It was raining, but from morning til late afternoon,
the day was peppered with some very impressive double rainbows.
A few days after my return, the farcical "grand jury" in Missouri returned it's verdict, and I participated in the biggest protest I'd been to in Portland in years. With some of the best speakers (the highlight probably being Ahjamu Umi, as is usually the case when he speaks at a protest), the worst sound system. And no music, aside from one a cappella song. A week later, another verdict, this one from New York.