A Portlander in Europe

I live in Portland, Oregon. Whatever it is you're thinking, it's not that place. Like many other cities in the US, it's a place in crisis. A deep crisis, wherein some developers make billions of dollars while thousands are thrown out onto the street, with hundreds of thousands struggling to keep up with their rapidly-increasing monthly rent.

Various politicians position themselves as progressive, and talk about their accomplishments. Such as making the streets very nominally safer by improving signage. Or publicly refusing to go to North Carolina, in protest against that state's discriminatory treatment of trans people.

I'm all for those things. But as for the acute suffering of half of their city's population (the half that rents), none of them seem to have anything approaching a solution to the problem. They talk about investing a little tax money in some new, low income housing. And then they sometimes even acknowledge publicly that this plan of theirs will have essentially zero impact on the housing market, given the 17,000 people moving to the city each year, and the 1% vacancy rate. And the fact that rent control is illegal, and unmentionable, somehow or other.

The evidence that the city is in a crisis is pretty obvious. The homeless population is mushrooming beyond anything I've ever seen outside of the cardboard shantytowns ringing Mexico City. With so many people working two jobs and spending most of their income on rent, other things are clearly getting overlooked, such as expensive things like car repairs. The number of damaged cars that just sit there and stay damaged month after month are mushrooming along with the homeless population. With more and more of those cars inhabited by people who are living in them.

Gentrification without controls, an undeclared class and race war, an ethnic cleansing in all but name, with half of Portland's African-American population lost between the last two censuses. What over 150 years of racist governance in Oregon failed to accomplish, gentrification is accomplishing.

Those increasingly few of us who have lived in the city for more than a few years walk around in a daze, as if we just landed on another planet. Where did all the stores on Division Street go? Where did all these well-dressed yuppies come from?

I listen to a couple of guys in their twenties talking excitedly about having found a two-bedroom apartment for “only” $1,500 a month. I hear a small group of homeowners slumming it in a food cart encampment, disparaging the tenants rights movement of which I am a part. (I leave, not trusting my ability to refrain from physically assaulting the yuppies, and not wanting to go to prison. Yes, I'm serious.)

I hear people talking about how much they like the new train lines, the new bike paths, the new organic supermarkets, the new drug laws. And I want to shout at them. Who cares about these things? They're just making the city more expensive. They only benefit those who own houses. Or renters making six-figure salaries who don't care how much they're paying to live in the city that still has the reputation of being full of artists. Most of whom have actually already left.

Portland, like the rest of the USA, is an everyone-for-themselves kind of place. I mean in terms of how it's run. Housing is a privilege, not a right. The market, I am told repeatedly by yuppies who somehow find their way to my YouTube channel, is sacrosanct, and those who can't afford to live in Portland should go somewhere where they can afford to live. Like one of those many cities where rent is cheap, but there's no work. They don't say that part, but that's what they mean.

The United States is currently designed by law to be a country where if you want to live in a city where there is work, and you weren't fortunate enough to be old enough to have bought a house several decades ago, then you have to spend most of your earnings on rent. And make some people very rich in the process. If you don't want to pay most of your earnings on rent, you can live somewhere where there is no work.

Of course, some of those places where there is no work are still within commuting distance of a city where there is work. So by design – or by lack of design, however you want to frame it – these allegedly “green” cities like Portland develop horrific traffic congestion, because so many people are moving from the city to the exurbs, in a desperate search for rent they can afford. And there aren't any buses or trains out there, so they have to drive to work, which is in Portland. Thus the traffic.

That's where I'm coming from. The land of capitalist chaos and untold suffering. All the police brutality and massacres and such are, to a large extent, a direct result of this kind of rampant inequity and inequality. Inequality, incidentally, is greater now than at any time since the nineteenth century in the USA. That is, you have to go back to the age of the robber barons, way before we had any kind of a welfare state – decades prior to the New Deal reforms of the 1930's – to get to a point in history where there was such gross inequality in the United States.

So then I go to Europe. Twice a year or more, for months at a time. Europe is where I make a living these days. This is the first year where I'm almost entirely making a living from touring Europe. Most of the musicians I know in the US are struggling to make a living, or have gotten other jobs now. Luckily, I have a following in Europe, and I've discovered this year that it's big enough for me to subsist entirely off of the backs of Europeans.

In Europe, many people talk of the same kinds of processes we're being devastated by in the US – gentrification, government spending cuts on social welfare, rising housing prices, rising rents, police brutality, institutional racism, “free trade” bills, xenophobic, far right politicians. And so on. They've got it all. And the rest of what I'm going to write here notwithstanding, I applaud all the Europeans who are fighting against these things, who hold on to their vision of what society could and should be like. Those efforts will prove absolutely necessary for the future of European societies, as with any other societies.

However, for me, coming from Portland to Europe – not just Europe, but specifically, the social democracies of northern Europe where I've been touring for the past month – always reminds me of being one of Frodo's gang in Middle Earth, leaving the realms that have been taken over by the orcs and the evil forces of Mordor, and arriving in the elven forest of Lothlorien.

As in Tolkien's books, you get the distinct feeling that the forces of evil are trying to push their way in – but for the most part they haven't made it yet. I get the feeling that I have gone from a chaotic land of injustice, to a well-organized, prosperous place where there is still a pretty solidly intact sense of living in a cohesive society. One that shares certain values, such as the belief in the right to affordable housing, health care, actual high-quality education, and many other things like that.

I don't pretend to be an investigate journalist or get all my facts straight, but I thought I'd share various random recollections of this past month on the road, some of which will serve to illustrate various differences as well as similarities between different places.

Random recollections. My first stop was Hellebaek in Denmark, a beautiful town right on the Baltic Sea – where I sit right now, the continental Europe segment of the tour ending where it began, as usual. (As in most of the world, it's cheaper to return the rental car in the same country, and often in the same city, as where you rented it.)

Sitting in my room, from where I can see Sweden a couple miles across the straight to the east, I'm in a building that's part of what used to be a sort of boarding school campus. The school doesn't exist anymore (which is a long and interesting tale of its own), but the folks who used to run the school still collectively own the buildings, and do various things with them. One of which is housing Syrian and Eritrean refugees, for which they get money from the local government each month.

Everywhere I go in Europe, people I know are housing refugees, and getting paid by their government to do so. The money is less than they could get if they rented rooms using Air B&B or something, but it's not nothing. (What if we had a program like that for housing refugees in the US, along with the homeless?)

One of the folks at the school who is involved with various projects in Europe and in Africa is from Germany. She's just back from a year in the Berlin area, where she was teaching German to refugees. She says they were generally becoming pretty fluent within six months. In Denmark, she observed, the refugees get free language lessons, too, but they're less frequent than in Germany, and progress is slower.

I scheduled in several days to recover from jet lag with nothing else to do but relax. (Something I've learned to do over the years, the hard way, by hitting the ground running and then getting sick.) I took daily walks into the small city of Helsingor, several miles away. There are several different paths you can take to get from Hellebaek to Helsingor, all of which involve walking for a full hour without crossing a single paved road.

Some of the paths go through private land. A golf course, a conference center, several mansions, including one that belongs to the royal family. The paths are public, though some of the property is not. (Get your head around that concept, my fellow Americans.)

To the south of Hellebaek I'm told you can go towards Copenhagen, on a bike path that either hugs the coast or goes through forest, without crossing a paved road for dozens of miles.

The first gig of this leg of the tour was on the sidewalk outside of an anarchist book store in the center of Copenhagen. Parking the car was easy, but very expensive, like Manhattan prices. Mass transit and bike lanes are everywhere, so combined with expensive parking, not many people drive cars.

It's the biggest city in one of the richest countries in the world. But traffic is fairly light, even during rush hour – though bicycle traffic is very heavy.

How much does the book store pay for rent, here in the city center, I wonder? Less than the equivalent of $1,000 a month, came the response. A fraction of what a business in downtown Portland might expect to pay for their monthly rent. Why so low? The storefront is rented from a housing collective, consisting of hundreds of apartments in five-story buildings that take up an entire block.

Unlike with cohousing developments, you “buy into” these housing collectives simply by moving in and paying what you could call “rent” – but the buildings have already been paid for by the collective, or by one of many foundations that do just this sort of thing, in order to guarantee lots of nice, inexpensive housing in countries like Denmark, Germany, and the Netherlands. Who are the landlords? The collective is the collective's landlord.

My next gig was a house concert for a friend who has worked for the Danish labor movement for decades. He lives with his family in a big farmhouse in the Danish countryside. One of the 80% of Danish workers who are union members, he made enough money that it wasn't a problem for him to live in such a big house, or to spend several thousand dollars to throw himself a party with well-paid entertainment, a rented ice cream machine, a top-notch chef, and more.

Next gig was in Christiania. A 900-person urban commune that has existed since 1970 or thereabouts. Residents pay around $20 a month towards various collective expenses to live there. Some live in artistic, home-made dwellings, while others live in somewhat more conventional structures. There are collective baths for those who lack running water in their places, though many people are hooked up to the city water supply as well as the electrical grid. A few years ago, Christiania was officially legalized, so it's no longer a squat – though even as a squat, it maintained its territorial integrity and autonomy the whole time. (Though frequently threatened with “normalization,” these threats were never really carried out by the state).

The next six gigs were in Sweden. Five of them in the Skane region, all within an hour's drive or less from the city of Malmo, just across the bridge from Copenhagen. In each of the towns, my friend Kristian Svensson and I played in places that were owned by the adult education and cultural events wing of the Swedish labor movement, ABF. These gigs were all free entry, often in beautiful theaters – our fees paid for by a combination of the local and regional ABF.

In Gothenberg, the gig was the most well-attended of all, with around 100 people packed in to the top floor of a five-story building called Marx Engels Huset, which is owned and run by the Swedish Communist Party. For this gig there was a door charge.

We stayed in the housing development which is reputed to be the most dangerous place in Sweden. It may be true – there have been a couple of murders there over the years. But by US standards, it's a nice housing development that might be generally associated with the “middle class” – though maybe the “lower” end of that spectrum, and the part that includes immigrants with dark skin.

There are big courtyards with grass, trees and play structures in between each building. The buildings are well-maintained, and largely made of real wood. They even smell good. I'm told there are rats. I even saw one in the courtyard. (They say in New York City, no one is ever more than thirty feet from a rat.)

In the midst of the little tour of Sweden, I took a ferry to the Danish island of Bornholm. The cheapest way to get there is by taking a ferry from the Swedish town of Ystad. On Bornholm lives one of the many people I know in Denmark and elsewhere in Europe who were students when I first met them, and are now leftwing, elected officials. My gig there was sponsored by his party, Enhedslisten (the red-green coalition is how they refer to themselves in English). It took place in a farmhouse that is being fixed up, after being bought by an ex-squatter from Berlin looking for a more rural life. I met many Danes and Germans on Bornholm doing just that. Some of the old farmhouses in the less popular interior of the beautiful island are going for the equivalent of $20,000.

Coming into Sweden, there were immigration agents occasionally glancing at the passports of the cars driving past them. Usually they literally glanced, not asking most of the cars to stop. On the way back into Denmark, and then into Germany, there are still no border controls. From Germany going back into Denmark, there are now, and it's the same sort of thing as when you go from Denmark to Sweden. A glance. (Though for people who “look like refugees” it's often more than a glance.)

My gig in Hamburg was on a Saturday. I parked the car for free, a few hundred feet from the Rathaus – City Hall – where I was to sing at a rally against the “free trade” agreement between the USA and Europe, the TTIP. 65,000 people packed into the Rathausplatz. In six other German cities, similar numbers, though I think Hamburg was the biggest of the simultaneous demos organized by a coalition of labor, environmental, and other organizations and political parties.

Not only were the demos well-attended, but they were well-organized, too. Mostly music on the stages, mostly independent artists, and playing through a state-of-the-art sound system, run by highly-trained professionals. All 65,000 people could hear everything that was going on on the stage, if they were so inclined, and most were.

The last time I played at a big demo like that was also in Germany, a little less than a year ago. The last time I played at a demo anywhere close to that big in the US was ten years ago. And that wasn't a labor-oriented demo like this one. In fact, I don't think we've had a labor-sponsored demo this size anywhere in the US in my lifetime.

Everywhere I went, I rudely asked people how much they paid in rent. Since the rent crisis in Portland really heated up, it's just always on my mind. And when I go to other big cities that lots of people are moving to for lots of different reasons – prosperous cities in rich countries – I have to know how things function there. And every time, the response causes my jaw to slacken. Because in city after city, when people are living in an apartment similar to mine in Portland, they are paying half of what I pay in rent. It's usually in the low hundreds of euros – never in the thousands.

Now, part of that is probably the circles I travel in. I don't know a lot of really expensive sorts of people. But I know a lot of people who live in apartments similar to mine. And although the cities they live in are way more prosperous than Portland, with jobs available that pay way better on the average, where the urban planning, mass transit, bike lanes, etc., are worlds away from our haphazard efforts at development (which are characterized mainly by sprawling parking lots and sprawling, two-story malls), they are paying half the rent that I pay. And I pay less than most people do in Portland for a 2-bedroom.

In the Netherlands, prosperity takes on a whole new meaning. There, they have had a functional welfare state for so many hundreds of years now that much of the population has moved beyond thinking about money entirely. Which can actually be very challenging for a touring musician who is not from the Netherlands. Because most of the events that anybody in my circles is organizing is usually free, in every sense, out of some kind of principle.

Which is all easier to do when the venues where things are taking place are also free, owned by foundations, or semi-legal (or fully legalized) squats. People say it's much harder to squat than it used to be, but squatted buildings are still to be found in every Dutch city. They are places where people live, and places where lots of cultural events take place as well.

I repeatedly had the same conversation with people in the Netherlands who were grappling with their greatest conundrum in life. Namely, how much paid work they should do in order to avoid going over the threshold that would result in their welfare benefits being cut.

This is not a conundrum because they want to do more paid work. They're happy to do volunteer work, too. But they'll take money now and then when it's available. As long as it doesn't amount to too much. Because why get stuck doing paid work that threatens the welfare payments, as opposed to accepting welfare and just doing volunteer work?

And if we're all volunteers (paid by the welfare state) then why shouldn't everyone else be volunteers? The logic only works for Dutch people, as you can see (or people who are independently wealthy through some other means). But it's lovely logic, anyway.

As I've been driving around Europe on this tour, one of the things that's different from prior tours is my phone plan. That is, with my domestic US T-Mobile account, I discovered one day that I can now use my phone on 2G in 120 countries, with unlimited data. Which includes all the countries I ever go to. So now I'm driving around Europe, listening to US, British, German or other English-speaking radio programs in real time, live. Not just podcasts and audiobooks anymore.

So as I'm experiencing Europe, I'm hearing about the latest massacre and the latest racist, killer cop back home. There was a minor disturbance that was dubbed a riot in Rotterdam a year or two ago, when a cop killed a black man there. It's happened in England and Norway and elsewhere in Europe, too. Like once a decade, rather than once a day. There are racist killer cops here, too. Just not as many. And mostly they don't have guns on them.

A very nice Dutch event organizer let me use his apartment for the eight days I was based out of it, doing gigs around the Netherlands and nearby (by American, Australian or Russian standards of distance) Belgium. He stayed with his parents, in the room he grew up in, I believe, a few blocks away. I had his place to myself, and I explored the neighborhood during the days when I had time. Which was most days, since most of the gigs were not more than an hour away.

What was especially notable was that this neighborhood in Dordrecht, a small city near Rotterdam with an industrial past, is known as being one of the roughest neighborhoods in the country. As with the neighborhood in Sweden with this reputation where I had recently stayed, this one had some dark-skinned immigrants in it, too.

For the first week I was there, it entirely failed to live up to its reputation as rough in any way. It was, as far as I could tell, a quiet, nicely multicultural, family-oriented neighborhood, with all the amenities of life within walking distance – a supermarket, a few takeaway places, a bakery, a convenience store. And the beautiful center of town was only a short bike ride away, for lots more amenities.

Most people there lived in nice little apartments as far as I could tell. And there was a big park in the neighborhood, too, with canals in every direction. On the second-to-last day I was there, however, I heard screams, and glass breaking, and a big thud a block away from where I was staying. The event made the local news: there had been a fight between two guys, and one of them had been thrown through a second-story window, and had to be hospitalized. No one died.

There are lots of down sides to Europe – even to the prosperous social democracies of the north. But coming from the USA, they are increasingly hard to see.

Syria and I Tour Europe

Certain activities dominated my summer at home in Portland, Oregon. Sweltering in the heat of the hottest summer in recorded history. Breathing the smoky air from the biggest forest fires in recorded history, much of which were not that far to the east of the city – as the crow flies, as the smoke blows. Spending time with my family. And, when alone, as I often was, reading the news, writing songs, and crying.

Some of this may be news to my wife, but she doesn't read my rambling blog posts. Though now that I've said that, one of you will probably tell her. But please don't – she has limited free time, and her own writing to do. But anyway, I do my crying alone. It's much easier that way, because people freak out when a grown man cries, unfortunately. Much of the world is still very sexist like that.

Of course, we're trained to ask incredibly stupid questions when someone is crying. Even when a child is crying, we automatically say, “what's wrong?” Meaning, of course, there is something wrong with crying. Something wrong with feeling. Unless you're laughing (but not too loudly).

Feeling, of course, is how you get through life, unless you've managed to kill that part of yourself, usually through some combination of drugs, alcohol and mindless entertainment – the three main pillars of modern western society. (Yes, as some of you know, I smoke pot and drink espresso regularly, both mind-altering substances. But not strong enough ones by themselves to stop the feelings, from my extensive experience.)

I would just like to point out, though it's a needless thing to do, since I'm preaching to the converted here, that if you have not spent the past few months crying as you hear about what's going on in the world, you're already dead. Which is sad, because you didn't die by accident – you were killed. But since this is a metaphorical kind of death, you can be resurrected. It starts with feeling. Everything starts with feeling, actually.

Scientists figured that out, did you hear? Some people have something missing in their brains so that they don't feel. Studies of these people find that they're completely dysfunctional and have no motivation to do anything in life. Which isn't surprising to anyone who's really living, but there's this longstanding macho idea you've probably heard of that real men don't feel anything, and that feeling things gets in the way of achieving things, which isn't true. Maybe it depends on what you're trying to achieve. But basically if you don't feel, you don't live.

I had this tour of Europe planned, but what I really wanted to do as soon as I got there was rent a big car and drive south, in order to take refugees north, where countries like Germany and Sweden were (and are) offering them asylum. As is their duty under international law, but most national governments don't give a shit about international law. (Take the USA, for example, which is constantly sending refugees to their deaths without asylum hearings. Every day.)

But I didn't do that. I did the responsible thing for a subsistence musician. I chased the paying gigs as usual, in the countries where the paying gigs are for me. Which, luckily for my sanity, involves hanging out and singing for activists and other wonderful people, along with lots of refugees, particularly on this tour.

The tour started out with one gig in the US, and then several dozen in Europe. I flew from Portland, Oregon to Salt Lake City, Utah.

Portland, the city where Joe Hill first became a card-carrying member of the Industrial Workers of the World. Salt Lake City, the city in which he was falsely accused of murder, put on trial, and executed by firing squad, 100 years ago next month. (Next month I tour the west coast with a bunch of other musicians, in part of the ongoing process to celebrate the life and work of this wonderful Swede.)

Starting, if I recall correctly, with the 25^th anniversary of Joe Hill's execution, a group of folks in Salt Lake known as the Joe Hill Organizing Committee or something like that, began having periodic commemorations, with musicians and speakers and such. The last one was on the 75^th anniversary.

There were some funds left from the last commemoration in a bank account, which turned out to be difficult to access, since most of the committee members from that time were now dead. But the surviving members managed to get the rules changed so they could access the funds, and they raised a whole bunch more, largely from the remnants of the local labor movement.

Two nice young people picked me up at the airport, one of whom was on the committee, and was, I believe, the only member of the committee under the age of 60. I'm pretty sure she was also the only committee member who was familiar with my music, and she was the one responsible for getting me to sing at the commemoration. Along with the great Philadelphia punk band, Mischief Brew, who I hadn't seen in years.

They picked me up at the airport and took me to a party at the home of one of the other committee members, where the rest of the committee was hanging out, along with an assortment of musicians and other folks. It was somewhat surreal, after one committee member after the other kept on welcoming me to Salt Lake City first, and then asking me what kind of music I play. Really...?

A lot of people don't realize that there are loads of progressives in Salt Lake City. They had a mayor, Rocky Anderson, who was one of the most progressive mayors in the US when he was in office, and that was fairly recently. There are all kinds of stupid ideas people have, which are easy ideas to have if you've never spent time in Utah, because few people or other outlets of information will tell you otherwise.

But unless you're one of those boring people who think that tattoos, piercings and vegetable oil are indications of progressive thought, Salt Lake City has way more progressive people in it than some cesspool of narcissism like San Francisco does. (I think I just pissed somebody off.)

Anyway, all those progressives were not at the gig in Salt Lake. They were somewhere else. But the couple hundred folks who did come to the gig were a great bunch. Mostly they stuck around from beginning to end.

Which could be interpreted in various ways. Either the people who heard about the gig were the more engaged elements of the local labor movement -- all of whom were present, I would guess. Or that Judy Collins doesn't have as much as an audience as she used to have, since she was the headliner, and the crowd did not grow significantly when she was due to be on stage.

It was a great day, though. Some of my favorite musicians were on the bill – along with Mischief Brew there were more acoustic types like Anne Feeney, Mark Ross, and Joe Jencks, who was especially impressive. Man, that guy can play the guitar, and the bazouki, really well. And what a voice, and what a songwriter. Check him out, if you haven't run across him yet.

An unexpected surprise at the event was seeing my friend Tayo Aluko in the crowd. Tayo is an actor and singer originally from Nigeria, who has been living in England for most of his life. I may be improvising on the chronology a bit, but basically when he discovered the life and music of the African-American communist scholar, linguist, athlete and musician, Paul Robeson, Tayo quit his job as an architect and became a full-time artist and rabble-rouser. He had gigs in British Columbia, and thought he'd go check out the Joe Hill commemoration in Salt Lake City.

Being a struggling artist these days, rather than a well-paid architect, Tayo took a Greyhound all the way from Vancouver to Salt Lake. Now that's serious dedication. Particularly given that Judy Collins did not attract a crowd, it would have been so much nicer to have the finale of the event being Tayo, which would have been rapturous. Instead, the finale was Judy, who is undoubtedly a phenomenal singer, but also the richest, least political, and least relevant artist on the bill.

No offense to Judy – none of these things are her fault. And really no offense to the organizers either – you got to make these tough decisions when organizing events, and trying to attract a crowd to them. And to be fair, they did originally ask someone both famous and very political to headline – Pete Seeger. They called him up and asked him if he'd do the gig. He told them he would, if he was still alive. Then he died.

One really special element to the event was the presence of three members of Joe Hill's family who came over from Sweden – his grand nephew, grand niece, and grand grand niece. I think I've got that right. The youngest member of the family wrote a very moving, short song about Joe Hill's execution, which she performed with her mother and uncle. And her uncle built her guitar, so it's altogether a very musical family.

I love playing gigs with other musicians, since they're often really cool people. Most gigs I do by myself. Which is also lovely, and there are other cool people in the world who aren't musicians, too, of course. But musicians are easier to relate to, generally. Joe Jencks and I stayed in the same house, the home of a guy who I never met, a big house full of musical instruments. We were about ready to form a band by the end of our visit.

A nice woman gave me and Anne Feeney a ride to the airport the next morning. Anne was heading home to Pittsburgh, and I was flying to Copenhagen, via Denver, though we would soon be rendezvousing in Sweden, a few days later.

The Denver airport is the only major airport in the US that I can think of that doesn't have a Starbucks, and also has no other decent coffee anywhere to be found.

Which might not suck all that much, except every time I'm there I'm reminded of this fact, because of the one time I was stuck at the airport for eight hours, waiting for a flight to Durango that kept being delayed, supposedly because of a light dusting of snow. (One of many US airports where I have been stuck in transit for eight hours or more. Which isn't quite so bad if there's decent coffee.)

When I fly to Europe I usually try to have at least two days to recover from jet lag. But then a good gig might come up that messes up that plan, and I don't make nearly enough money to turn those down.

So upon landing in Copenhagen on the afternoon of September 7^th, I got the rental car, took a nap in it, and drove the two hours in rush hour traffic from there to Odense, where I was doing a show in a pub, sponsored by the “red-green coalition” party in the Danish Parliament, Enhedslisten.

It was my only gig in Denmark on this tour that wasn't in the vicinity of Copenhagen, and several folks drove from all over the western parts of the country to catch it. It wasn't otherwise a huge crowd, but the few people who were there really wanted to be there. The sound system was mysteriously not working, so I played acoustic, which worked fine. If I had been trying to remember lyrics on my own, with the sleep deprivation and jet lag, it might have gone really badly, but with the tablet on stage in front of me, I didn't forget a word.

Attila says the tablet has deprived me of any punk rock credibility I might have had. But other people say it's cool to be a geek these days. So maybe I can still be a punk, I don't know. Or maybe I never was one.

From the first gig in Europe to the last, there was talk of refugees. And real live refugees, as well, on many occasions.

Most people I know in Denmark were somehow involved with trying to help the Syrians and others who were and are walking down the highways of the country, mostly en route to Sweden. So many people were bringing them food that there was too much of it. People were offering them places to stay, but oftentimes the refugees were unable or unwilling to accept these offers, either for fear of being fingerprinted in a country in which they didn't want to claim asylum, or because they wanted to keep going toward Sweden.

After the gig in Odense I did have a couple days to recover from the jet lag, which I spent staying with friends near Helsingor, on the Baltic Sea.

I spent much of my time there sleeping, taking advantage of my hosts' hospitality, which included several hot meals a day, and walking. I walked from the school where I was staying (part of which is now the Hellebaek B&B, which I highly recommend for anyone traveling in Denmark) to the center of Helsingor several times, which is a long walk. I listened as I walked to an audiobook version of the recent work, An Indigenous People's History of the United States, which is fantastic.

Listening to this book, I was reminded once again of some of the lesser-known events of the year 1492, and it occurred to me how terribly relevant the story of the Ottoman defeat in Granada is for us today. Particularly the bit where the Spanish rulers declare that all Jews had three months to leave Spain or be killed, and how the Ottoman Sultan responded to this declaration – by sending the Ottoman fleet to Spain to rescue hundreds of thousands of Europeans, and bring them to Ottoman lands, where they and their descendants lived in peace and prosperity, and still do. While in other places, Europeans were busily exterminating pagans, Jews, Muslims, atheists and even their fellow Christians, especially the non-white ones, on both sides of the Atlantic.

On September 10^th I met up with my dear friend, comrade and fellow rabble-rousing songwriter, Kristian von Svensson. We played at the venerable punk rock social center in the Norrebro neighborhood of Copenhagen, Bumzen. Earlier in the day, the place was kitted out with bedding, in expectation of refugees spending the night, but they didn't end up making it there for one reason or another.

From early in the evening until late, the place was filled with people of all ages, mostly on the younger side, who treat me like a rock star. There are very few places outside of Denmark where I get the rock star treatment. But just a little of that goes a long way to making me feel like I'm doing something right. Folks were singing along to my older songs with great enthusiasm, and it was even caught on film for posterity. (With a little camera sitting on a windowsill near me – not a professional job or anything, but fun, if you're into home movies.)

On September 11^th there was a peace demonstration in the center of Copenhagen. One of the themes at all the Danish peace demos is the opposition to Denmark's participation in NATO's disastrous military campaigns in places like Afghanistan and Libya, and opposition to the Danish government's purchasing of fancy new fighter jets from the US. At this demo, not surprising given the choice of date, there were a whole bunch of 9/11 conspiracy people, fairly aggressively pushing their world view, with a wingnutty style that matched the content of their thinking perfectly. Some of them spoke from the stage, too, presumably because they were invited to do so, which was somewhat shocking. (This would never happen in Germany or many other countries.)

This would be the first of several demonstrations I would sing at during the course of my tour. The biggest being almost exactly one month later, in Berlin.

After Kristian and I sang at the demo, we split for Malmo, over the bridge that crosses the Baltic Sea, which separates Denmark from Sweden. We joined Anne Feeney, and the well-known leftwing Swedish songwriter, Jan Hammarlund, at a conference organized by the most leftwing party represented in Sweden's parliament.

The cultural evening preceded the actual conference, and culminated in a fabulous set by a one of those bands that you will run into frequently on both sides of the Atlantic these days, who are clearly influenced by some combination of Balkan music and punk rock. I wanted to kidnap the fiddle player and take her on the road with us, but I figured she might not approve of such a plan, and so I didn't. (I only like kidnapping people who want to be kidnapped.)

The next day we were in Oslo, where we met up with our mutual friend, another Swedish songwriter, future rock star Elona Planman.

She was touring on her own, but had eight days free, which coincided perfectly with our plans. Due to my fairly impressive car-packing skills (which mostly involves the basic principle I learned from Alistair Hulett, that you can put a guitar upside-down in the backseat, so the neck is in the floor well and the body is flush with the door, thus taking up very little space), we managed to fit three adults, three guitars, and luggage in a small rental car.

There had been a big demo in cities throughout Europe that afternoon in solidarity with refugees, including in Oslo. Unfortunately we couldn't sing at any of the demos that day, since we were spending the whole day in the car, driving from Malmo to Oslo. The crowd at the punk rock bar, Maksitaksi, was a quality crowd, but lacking in numbers, due, I think, to the fact that people were tired after spending the day demonstrating. There was also a meeting going on related to refugees across the street, which may have also depleted our potential audience.

Touring with Kristian and Elona was like a constant party (minus the drugs or alcohol, for the most part). It's strangely so rare to spend significant amounts of time with two other people of such like mind. All very different people, and very different musicians as well, but with a lot in common.

In Norway the gigs were largely either in punk rock venues, or cafes run by Maoists. These things vary a lot depending on the country, the city, and the scene, but for sure on this little tour of Norway, the biggest and most attentive audiences were at the Maoist venues, which also definitely had the largest numbers of red flags.

On the way up to Trondheim we were pulled over by a cop, who just wanted to know where we were going and why and stuff like that. It was a very unusual thing to happen in Scandinavia. I'm still not sure what that was about, and I didn't ask at the time, though I suspect (and hope) it was just a safety thing.

It's a long drive from Oslo to Trondheim, and there are probably a lot of drivers who don't take breaks to rest along the way. The cop seemed especially to want to know if we had driven that day all the way from Denmark, where the car was rented. Which would have been nuts. But that's when I thought maybe he was just looking out for drivers who might be about to fall asleep at the wheel.

There is not a single cup of decent coffee to be found anywhere between Oslo and Trondheim, and all the food sucks, too.

In Trondheim the three of us did a workshop in a little leftwing infoshop in the wonderful, squatted neighborhood of Svartlamon.

The idea was a workshop about songwriting and making a living as a DIY musician. But it seemed like at least half of the folks there were hoping to hear music, and we lost half the crowd by the end of it. We had a great time, though, and it was pretty wild to see how much we all thought the same way about these things. (This was also recorded and is apparently up on the web somewhere.)

Two different couples for whom I have great affection and admiration in Svartlamon have had babies since I last saw them, so there was lots of playing with babies going on during our fairly leisurely visit to the city. We had three gigs in four days, but they were all very nearby, so the days were ours.

On our way back south, another night in Oslo, a little house concert, where one of the folks in attendance was involved with providing 120 winter jackets per day to all of the refugees coming into Oslo.

As with Germany and elsewhere, many of the donations are from individuals, but local companies are also donating lots of stuff, too. In many cases the folks providing these things are so well-organized that the refugees have no idea they're volunteers, and not working for the government.

All over Scandinavia as we drive and walk around, and later all over Germany, Belgium, the Netherlands, the most common poster to be seen wheatpasted all over the place included the words, “refugees welcome.”

With some variation – in Glasgow, one guy at my gig there had a t-shirt that read, “aye, refugees welcome.” The Scottish version.

Back in Malmo for a gig at the collective house that Kristian lives at, I took some folks for a beer run in our rental car, where we passed a bustling refugee center. And a few blocks later, several dozen people marching through the streets in solidarity with said refugees, on the way to do something at the center.

One of the folks helping run the gig was a Palestinian who had been living in an overcrowded refugee camp in Syria before that became untenable. He was one of the earlier Syrian arrivals to Europe, having lived in Sweden for three years now, after having a miserable time first in Italy, where he had to stay because of the Dublin Treaty.

The last gig that Kristian, Elona and I did together was in a union hall in Copenhagen, from the union federation known as 3F. It was an unexpectedly fun gig.

The 3F gigs are always great – appreciative audiences, good pay. But although most Danes are very fluent in English, this is often somewhat less true of the labor movement's rank and file, who are less likely to have gone to college (where instruction is mostly in English). In Copenhagen, however, even the rank and file of the labor movement speaks excellent English, and this was very evident from the responses of the audience when I was doing my thing. I think they had more trouble understanding Swedish than English, according to one Danish friend's report. (Kristian and Elona mostly sing in Swedish -- which closely resembles Danish in written form, but less so when spoken or sung.)

My next stop was Great Britain, where I was due to do six gigs in seven days, starting in London. I stayed in London with my favorite soft-hearted, dog-loving photojournalist who pretends to be a hard-nosed cynic, Guy Smallman, who has been making frequent trips in recent months to places like Calais and Hamburg, which both have large refugee populations, and lots of activities related to them. In Calais these are often characterized by the French police brutalizing people and making their lives much more difficult than they already are. In Hamburg, it's more about covering the amazing efforts local people have been making to try to accommodate the influx of refugees in need of housing, food and clothing.

My first gig in London was singing a few songs at the launch party for Attila the Stockbroker's new memoir, Arguments Yard. I've got a copy, which I'm looking forward to reading. Attila and I have done something like 14 tours together over the past 15 years, so apparently I'm in the book... One of the performers at the packed venue in the center of London was a leftwing comedian, the best I've ever heard, named Jeremy Hardy.

In England, the fact that the Labor Party had a grassroots democratic vote of its own membership for the first time ever, resulting in the election of the most leftwing leader the party has ever had, was the biggest topic of conversation.

And it's quite a development. This man, Jeremy Corbyn, is Facebook friends with Guy, who has known him for something like twenty years. It may be a total fantasy, but the idea of Corbyn being Prime Minister of the UK at the same time as Bernie Sanders is president of the US is a pretty wild notion. Which I think very unlikely.

Particularly unlikely when you take in the media coverage of Corbyn in Britain. Driving around in my rental car, I listened a lot to BBC Radio 4, as I often do when I'm there. It's an interesting thing with BBC. The World Service makes BBC appear progressive for the most part. This is the image the BBC (and perhaps the British establishment generally) wants to convey to their many foreign listeners, for whom the World Service is intended.

But within England it's a different story, and I heard almost nothing but ridicule aimed at Corbyn from just about everyone on Radio 4 who talked about him. And most people on Radio 4 were talking about him most of the time. If it was a program that had anything to do with the news of the day, and not some radio drama about the love affairs of the royals.

Glasgow was also a place for me to feel somewhat rock star-ish, with people enthusiastically singing along to the older songs they knew. The thing was that when they weren't singing along with me, they were talking loudly and drinking excessive amounts of alcohol. In between songs they were breaking into pro-IRA chants and snippets of rebel songs. Most of the people in the bar were drinking a green substance known as Venom. A sweet mixed drink of some kind. (I had a sip, for sociological purposes.)

Outside of the Squirrel Bar in Glasgow, I witnessed for the first time the following sequence: an extremely drunk man tripped over the curb backwards and landed on his head with a horrid thwack. And then he immediately started snoring loudly. Which was very reassuring for me, because I thought he might have died when he hit his head on the sidewalk.

His friends seemed unconcerned about that possibility, though when he woke up eventually, they were diligently making sure he didn't fall again, helping him walk and such. “You'll never walk alone,” the song goes, very popular among footballers throughout Europe. Not sure if that's the kind of thing the song is referring to, though.

Edinburgh, the ancient capital of Scotland, is a much more posh, and smaller, city than Glasgow, and the audience at the show there was true to form. Attentive, quiet, and not drunk, at least not in any noticeable kind of way. Back again in England, in Birmingham a young man spoke at the gig who was off to Calais the next day. Solidarity everywhere. There was also a fabulous opening set by a local songwriter named Alan Sprung. (No relation to Roger Sprung, for any of you hardcore folkies who might be wondering.)

The one gig I did in London where I was doing a full show was the last gig in Britain, at an art gallery run by Palestinians, called P21.

A whole bunch of folks came from my email list, and from the efforts of the organizer, who wasn't involved with the gallery, but was offered the use of the gallery for the occasion. Somehow or other, either because no one had looked at the fine print, or because no one had been told about it, the gallery folks planned on taking almost the entire money from the door for their “expenses.” This was the first gig I've ever done where the venue took 80% of the door. If you're thinking about doing a gig in London, avoid the P21 gallery!

By now, the month of September was over. It was October 1^st, and I was flying to Munich. I rented a car at the Munich airport, and headed towards the small town in the picturesque Bavarian mountains, where I would spend the next three nights.

There are three brothers, all really great guys. One of them is a professional rock climber, and he's the one out of the three who first heard my music. The other two are musicians, and both absolutely stellar ones at that. Together they make up half of two different bands, one more acoustic-oriented, and one solidly punk rock.

Their acoustic band and I did one of the gigs together – the Bumble Boys.

It was great to hear their set, but otherwise the gigs were a bit odd. People in Bavaria seem to have too much money, as far as I can tell, at least in the countryside. Maybe in the actual city of Munich it would be different, but I've never had a gig there, aside from singing at the G7 protest there last spring. But being in the mountains and hanging out with the Bumble Boys was a pleasure. Especially the baby.

In Freiburg I played at the squatted social center by the railroad tracks known as KTS. It was a “refugees welcome” gig, and among the fifty or so people in the room were a dozen or so refugees. One who I talked to was a French-speaker from somewhere in Africa. The folks at KTS had made piles of food, which was all eaten happily and eagerly.

Some of the same people who organized the KTS gig are also very involved with refugee solidarity. Among other things, they had briefly set up a volunteer welcome center just outside of Freiburg's refugee camp. But the only place they could set it up on was a little patch of dirt on privately-owned land, and the landlord objected, so they couldn't stay there.

There was one strange young blonde hippie handing out strange fliers about some kind of natural medicine which KTS folks said was a form of neo-fascist propaganda.

Germans can be very sensitive about anything smacking of paganism coming from other Germans, since that was a big part of the Nazi shtick back in the day. Germans are often skeptical when I tell them that in Scandinavia, England, the US and elsewhere, paganism and natural medicine is not at all associated with fascism. (Most of the pagans in the US that I know grew up Jewish, so that would be especially weird if they were closet Nazis.) At the end of the night, the hippie with the flyers was told to leave. She cried. I felt bad for her, but didn't know what to say.

My next actual gig was in Cologne, but first I made a detour to Gent, in Belgium, to sing one song at a press conference against the TTIP. Which is an evil trade deal you should know about – the Atlantic version of the TPP deal, which Hillary Clinton has just joined Bernie Sanders in ostensibly opposing, though I'm sure that's just her positioning herself to look more leftwing in order to win the Democratic nomination, before she goes and stabs us all in the back afterwards, like usual for her and other leaders of her corporate, undemocratic party.

In Gent we had the press conference, and made a little video in front of Cargill's big factory on the outskirts of town.

I hadn't slept well the night before, since I arrived in Gent to be welcomed by my host who I had been in touch with, and her extremely drunk husband and his equally drunk friend, who proceeded to spend the rest of the evening regaling me with stories that were almost entirely impossible to understand, since half the time they were lapsing into Flemish or French, both of which they spoke far better than English.

I then slept in a room with no door on it, which meant I didn't sleep much, until the drunks started snoring rather than shouting. A slight improvement. Naturally, they didn't have to get up in the morning to go sing at a press conference, like I did.

There were only a few people at the show in Cologne, which was too bad, because the venue, Underground Cologne, is a really cool spot. There's a big squat in the neighborhood, complete with a military helicopter sitting on a roof. (I'm pretty sure it doesn't fly anymore.)

Of the few people at the gig, one had come all the way from Berlin – about six hours on the train. A quality crowd, even if it were just her. And it was nice to hear the Children of Lir play, a local band that was on the bill with me at the Underground.

After a long drive to Berlin, the high point of the tour began. There were two gigs in towns in former East Germany outside of Berlin, and one protest in Berlin. Despite the fact that my pickup mysteriously wouldn't function through their sound system, it eventually worked out and I sang three songs for an estimated 250,000 people.

The streets of that big, lovely city were filled with marchers from all over the country, many of whom had come there in buses. There were more buses than I've ever seen in one place. Literally for miles you could walk down a big wide street, with bus after bus parked side by side – not end to end, but side by side. And on other streets, yet more buses, this time parked end to end.

The whole thing was a model of good organizing, from the buses and the massive crowds to the highly professional stage, sound system, screens broadcasting the proceedings with a three-camera shoot, great people giving speeches from all over the German left, and great musicians.

Unlike at similar big demos in the US, there were no rock stars on the stage. I'm sure there would have been rock stars who would have gladly played for free for such a crowd. I don't think they were asked. The musicians who did play were uniformly really good, DIY bands, including a feminist, anti-fascist hiphop artist and a punk band called Radio Havana.

Performers who attract audiences, to be sure – I talked to the singer in Radio Havana, and he said they usually get 300 people coming to their shows. Which means they have a serious following, far bigger than mine – but not nearly on the rock star scale of things.

On either side of the demo were the two gigs in the eastern German towns. One was in Brandenburg, and the other in Bad Belzig. Both of these gigs were “refugees welcome”-themed events, with great crowds of people, almost none of whom had any idea about my music, most of whom were older easterners who did not speak much English.

In the media, when refugees and eastern Germany are mentioned in the same article, it's usually to talk about the anti-immigrant group in Dresden, PEGIDA, or to talk about Nazis burning down asylum centers. But in both Brandenburg and Bad Belzig, the mayors of the towns, and very mainstream organizations such as the Lions' Club and the Rotary Club were sponsors of the events. Dozens of refugees came to each gig from the local refugee centers, and were warmly welcomed with food, and the occasional person who spoke both Arabic and German.

The main person coordinating these gigs, and getting the sponsorship of everyone involved, was a local social worker who I originally knew from Cologne a long time ago, named Regina Schwartz. Regina also made what everybody says are very poetic translations of dozens of my songs into German, which she read aloud to the assembled audiences before I sang each song. This made the whole thing drag a bit for me and probably for others who were fluent in English, but for most of the people there, it seemed to work well.

There were many women and children, but most of the Syrian refugees there were young men. Some journalists have pointed out that part of the reason why Angela Merkel is welcoming the Syrian refugees so enthusiastically is because she and others in Germany know that the German population is rapidly aging as well as shrinking, and without a very large amount of immigration, this trend will continue, which is bad for the German economy. Immigration, as people know who are not xenophobes reacting emotionally to these things, is good for national economies, particularly in countries like Germany and Sweden, which have such low birth rates.

In any case, the contrast between these young Syrian men and the mostly elderly Germans in these towns was very noticeable. It was also interesting to note that the Syrians who spoke the best English were usually the ones with the lightest skin. I've never been to Syria, but hanging out with these guys made me wonder about the class divide in Syria, and how it breaks down in terms of skin color and other factors. Several of the Syrians were so white, they would fit right in in Scandinavia. The rest would fit in more easily in Sicily or thereabouts.

A large group of Syrian guys came to the gig in Bad Belzig because someone simply walked to the closed infoshop where they were hanging out outside, using the free wifi, and said there's something happening at the church around the corner.

I don't think they even knew what it was that was happening there, but within a minute or so, they were all in the church attending my gig, and helping set things up for it. At the gig in Brandenburg, a former English teacher from Syria had stayed up all night the night before making Arabic translations of my set, which people projected on a screen as I sang the songs in English. (Which was a great idea, except that the stage lights kind of made the screen almost impossible to see if you weren't in the front row.)

Then a stop in Dusseldorf – an interview at a TV station that was organized by the same folks who had organized the gig in Cologne.

The original idea was to be on TV before the gig in Cologne, to help promote it, but that didn't work with my schedule, so I was on TV after all my gigs in Germany were over. But it was great – so professional, with a three-camera shoot and an expert interviewer, as fluent in English as he was in his own language.

It's always so nice to be on TV in Germany or in England or elsewhere, but it always makes me wish this would ever happen in my own country. (Aside from public access stations, which are great, but not at all on the same level of professionalism as the more mainstream stations in Europe that seem to have no problem having someone on who expresses political views such as mine).

I arrived in Brussels early the following afternoon. The folks putting on the house concert there said they'd be home by late afternoon, so I just poked around the neighborhood for a few hours. I had set the GPS to take me to the address of the show, and then found parking and walked around.

I was walking down one street when someone knocked on a window, from the inside, as I passed by. I thought, maybe it's someone involved with the house concert who recognizes me or something. I turned around and went back to the window where I had just heard the knocking, and was momentarily surprised to see a nearly naked woman smiling at me. Ah-ha! I was in the red light district. After that, there were many more knocks on windows as I passed them. I eventually settled for a large chunk of the afternoon in a cafe with virtually no customers, with a young woman behind the counter, chain-smoking cigarettes and listening to very loud Spanish pop music.

The house concert turned out to be in the backyard of a collective house, on a freezing, rainy night. Because it's the red light district, rent is cheap if you're not renting a window to work out of. People don't want to live in the neighborhood.

But the folks in the collective house have a great deal on the place, all the more so because they have a huge backyard with a big one-room house in it. The house used to be full of junk, but they cleaned it up and now they use it as a place for having events.

The roof of the house in the backyard is made of glass panels, so it's like a greenhouse. Some of the panels are smashed or otherwise not there, and the place was very damp and moldy, but otherwise quite welcoming, by squat standards.

Folks made two campfires, one of them in the house in the backyard. There were no chimneys or anything, but most of the smoke eventually made its way through the holes in the roof. Much of it lingered in the house, making the place very smoky, especially since the wood we were burning was mostly wet.

My clothing still smells like acrid smoke. There were several dozen people present on a rainy, cold Wednesday night outside, which makes me wonder how many people might have showed up if it not been quite so inclement.

Despite the cold weather and rain and all that, and it being a Wednesday night, there were two other musicians on the bill, both young folks who did very long sets full of their feelings and opinions about everything, by the end of which many of the audience members had given up on the weather and left. But the crowd that remained that I played for was very appreciative.

The following day the rain continued, as a thousand or so people gathered for yet another protest against TTIP.

Which had a serious refugee lining to it, given the times, and given that people are aware of the intimate connections between economics, wars, and the inevitable flows of refugees fleeing these man-made disasters. A couple weeks earlier, the Belgian labor movement had gathered to protest TTIP, with an estimated 100,000 people attending. But this protest was elements of the left not involved with labor, for the most part.

The atmosphere in Brussels that day felt very strange, especially in the area of the European buildings, the city being the capital of Europe, so to speak, with official EU institutions taking up much of the urban landscape. So many of the cars were limousines or other fancy cars filled with politicians, lobbyists, and other such scum (aside from the occasional leftwing MEP, who mostly don't drive in fancy BMWs anyway).

Police and soldiers lined the streets all over Brussels, turning away anyone without the right credentials.

I joined one group of French-speaking people who were clearly headed to the demo, and it took us a long time to eventually find the route that we were allowed to take that would lead us to the proceedings. As I walked past some smug yuppies who were commenting on the demo they had just passed by, one of them said to the other, “these people couldn't organize a brawl in a pub” or something to that effect.

I wondered if she knew about the 100,000 people who had protested there two weeks earlier. But hey, when you're opposing the richest, most powerful forces in the history of the world – European and American capitalists – perhaps not winning right away is not an indication of poor organizing skills...?

In any case, the yuppie spoke too soon, or at least she would have thought so if she had tried to drive a car following that rally, as I did.

After singing a couple of songs, I beat a hasty retreat back to my rental car, with the plan to drive to Eindhoven to pick up a couple of friends, and then from there to Utrecht for the evening's gig. However, I had only gotten about one block away from where I parked before I had a front row seat there in my car to witness a bunch of folks very efficiently blockading a major road by dragging big metal barriers into the road, like the kind police use. They then stood behind the barriers – a smart place to stand, given the aggressive attitude of many of the drivers in their fancy cars with their suits and ties on, who would have had to first hit a metal barrier if they wanted to plow into any of the protesters.

This was the only road blockade I personally witnessed, but judging from the completely snarled traffic throughout the city in every direction, I'm pretty sure they were blockading many other roads as well. It took me exactly an hour to get from the center of Brussels to the ring road, which I think was only around five kilometers away.

This was not the only traffic-related excitement for me that day, unfortunately.

Driving with my friends from Eindhoven down the highway towards Utrecht, traffic was stop-and-go now and then, though mostly it was moving OK. But at one point I noticed a red car that just stayed in the fast lane after the traffic had started moving again a good 30 seconds or so already, before the car got going. That's when I passed the red car, and got into the fast lane myself. Then the stop-and-go traffic started up again, and, while completely stopped in traffic, we got rammed from behind – by that very red car I had noticed a minute earlier.

The driver of the fancy new red car was a very fashionable young Dutch woman with tight pants and a fur coat. She acknowledged in writing on the trans-European form for traffic accidents that all European drivers have with them in their cars that she had hit us from behind, which means she was at fault. Hopefully things go OK with the insurance companies, unlike several years ago when I was also stopped in a road and was hit by another attractive young white woman, who totaled the car Alistair and I were following, and then proceeded to total our car. Although we had a lawyer friend helping us for free, we were unsuccessful in getting that woman to pay the $1,200 we ended up having to pay the rental car company for the deductible.

My gig that night in Utrecht was originally to have been a double-bill with the rocking hippie legend of the Netherlands since the early 1960's known as Armand, but he's sick in the hospital. So I visited him there, and did the gig with another group that the organizer had gotten to replace him, a fantastic trio of guys who all live in a squat in the ADM squat in Amsterdam, called the Bucket Boys.

The trio consists of three singers doing lots of great, bluegrassy vocal harmonies, with one guy on banjo, another on a one-string tub bass, and the other playing percussion on a bucket. The percussionist is originally from Tennessee, but has been living in Amsterdam so long that his English is peppered with Dutch grammar and phrases.

The final gig on the tour involved one more stop in England. I returned my German rental car in Dusseldorf and flew again to Heathrow, where the only car they had left for me to rent was an SUV, which I drove to Harlow, getting there in time to be early for the gig.

The place in Harlow was a historic punk venue that had been around since the beginning of the punk rock phenomenon in England. Attila used to live in Harlow back in the 80's, and played there often, as did the poet who was the first, brilliant act on the bill, Janine Booth.

The venue is called the Square, though it was originally called Square One (a better name). It's closing after all these years, and the volunteers who run the place decided to go out with a bang, having lots of acts play there who had played there long ago.

I never played there in the 80's, but the Square in Harlow was one of the first gigs I ever did in England, back around 2000 or so. The organizer of that gig introduced me. Appropriately for a venerable punk venue soon closing its doors, the other of the three acts on the bill, and the one that attracted most of the audience members under the age of 50, was a very youthful band having their first gig ever.

Next tour: the Joe Hill 100 Road Show on the west coast of the US.

A Few Random European Tour Reflections

I've just completed a nine-week tour that involved playing gigs most nights of every week throughout five different northern European countries. And once again, I'm finishing the tour with some written reflections and recollections from it. My observations probably get repetitive. I go back to the same countries, for the most part. Although things change in different ways each time, they stay similar more than they change.

In the US things stay similar more than they change, too. For anyone who read my reflections on the similarly extensive tour I did last fall in North America, the differences between that tour and this one in Europe will be fairly obvious. Recent protests against police brutality throughout the US notwithstanding, the Left more broadly has been in a fairly anemic state in most of the US for most of the past decade or so. This anemic state is reflected very starkly in my gigs there, such as with most of my gigs last fall, which were some of the worst-paying, most badly-attended gigs I've done since I started touring full-time in the 1990's, overall.

Not so in Europe, where my audiences continue to either grow or stay similar in size. Somehow, almost magically, it seems, my audiences in much of Europe don't age, either. Somehow, young people keep discovering my music and coming to my gigs there. Is that because the Left is so much more active in northern Europe as compared to the US? Are there more people in Europe who give a shit than there are in the US? To both questions, I would say the answer is a simple “no.”

Then why did my tour of the US last fall involve an average audience size of fewer than 20 people, whereas in Europe there were often close to or more than 100 people coming to many of my shows? Why did the tour last fall involve exactly zero protest rallies, whereas in Europe I sang at six of them in three different countries? All involving stages, nice sound systems, and crowds in the high hundreds or low thousands. In one case, tens of thousands.

In the US, the politicians from both parties seem to become more and more conservative by the year (what the rest of the world calls “liberal” or “neoliberal”). In northern Europe, the far right's electoral gains generally seem to eclipse the Left's gains, just as the “Tea Party” gain ground on the other side of the pond. In the US, the anemic Left looks to South American social movements and electoral politics for inspiration, just as the northern Europeans look to Greece and Spain.

My very differing experiences can be summed up in many relevant ways, but being both an American and a poet, I'm tempted to boil it all down to a one-word soundbite: infrastructure. There may be a similar proportion of activist-inclined types in Sweden compared to the US, but look what the Swedes have to work with that are either entirely absent or almost entirely absent in the US.

Unions. Unions that own property in every city and most towns in the country, where they use their vast financial resources to systematically fund cultural events, visiting speakers, adult education. Unions that run resorts for their members.

Truly Left political parties – not pseudo-progressive “caucuses” within otherwise neoliberal, corrupt organizations, such as the virtually worthless entities like the Progressive Caucus, but actual Left political parties with significant representation in parliament.

Leftwing social centers. Liberated territory occupied by anarchists, communists, punks and hippies (though rarely all at the same time). Self-run, independent social centers – not a function room in a fundamentally alienating environment like a Christian church. No offense intended to all you wonderful progressive Christians, but most of us on the Left are atheists, last I checked, and having Jesus hanging on the cross behind me when I'm trying to do a gig is not a welcoming environment. (Though the fact that the churches are often free or very cheap to use, even in cities where virtually nothing else is free or cheap to use, is a major factor that will surely keep the Left using churches in the US for many years to come.)

I left Portland, Oregon on the first day of April, landing in Hamburg on the morning of April 2^nd. The great revelation for me that made this tour of Europe technically easier than any before it was owed to the fact that for whatever reason, if you have a contract with T-Mobile in the US, you can now roam the world with an unlimited data connection for no extra cost. For someone like me, it's hard to overstate how handy this development has been.

I also discovered Instagram in earnest at the beginning of the tour, so this tour has been especially well-documented with my best efforts at photography to date (though my real photographer friends have only been rarely impressed at my efforts). You can judge for yourself...

I landed in Hamburg because the rental cars are cheaper there than in Scandinavia, and it's nearby. But my first gig was north of Copenhagen, in the town of Helsingor. It was the annual conference of a Trotskyist party, with folks from all over Scandinavia participating. I somehow accidentally made a joke about an icepick (I meant pickaxe, but it came out wrong). No one called me a Stalinist, so it was all OK.

The month of April was fairly evenly divided between Denmark and Sweden, but Swedes played an especially prominent role in my life that month, in both Denmark and Sweden. My two-week tour of Sweden was all organized by a Swedish songwriter named Kristian von Svensson, and most of my gigs in Denmark involved opening sets by another Swede named Elona Planman.

The first gig that Elona and I did together was that first gig of my tour, in Helsingor. Elona is an amazing songwriter and a spellbinding performer. And she pretty much writes exclusively in Swedish, a language I do not understand. How, you may wonder, do I then know that she's so good? Answer: the same way I know I'm good. Not by assessing various aspects of the songs themselves so much as by assessing the reactions of the audience.

When Elona makes a joke, the audience laughs. When she sings a sad song, the audience cries. Simple as that. Although she has also given me rough English translations of her songs, and they're really good. Despite the fact that none of her songs are as overtly political as, say, mine tend to be, she completely won over audiences of Trotskyists, retired union members, elderly folk music aficionados, and teenage anarchists alike.

I first met Elona two years earlier, when her life was mostly full of a wild project known as the Floating City. Which is essentially a metal ship the size and shape of a city block, which will hopefully soon be floating on the water, rather than inside a warehouse, where it's been now for many years, in construction.

We had a gig together back then, and when I went to visit the Floating City later in the week, we spent most of an afternoon with me giving her a guitar lesson. She was clearly sucking up everything I showed her, like a proverbial sponge. And then hearing what she's been doing since then, doing these gigs together, it was so gratifying to hear so clearly how thoroughly she had absorbed all that stuff, and worked at it daily. Which is not at all to say that I deserve any significant credit for Elona's development as a guitarist. But it's still so gratifying on those rare occasions when you can clearly tell that music tips I gave were understood, absorbed, and incorporated. Students like that make teachers happy...

The days between gigs for Elona and I were spent largely at a multifaceted place a few kilometers down the road from Helsingor, in the little coastal village of Hellebaek. Run by founders of an alternative school system which was eventually more or less banned by the Danish government, the buildings where the schools used to run out of are all still in operation, since those running the schools had the wisdom to buy property, rather than rent it. So when the Danish state's largesse was no longer available, the physical infrastructure was still there, and now there's the Hellebaek B&B, among other things happening there.

And what a B&B it is. Not just great meals, but eaten in the company of some of the most interesting, knowledgeable teachers and organizers I've ever met, who have spent their decades-long careers teaching, working, and traveling throughout Europe, Asia, Africa and the Americas. Every day was a new lesson in the history of Danish social democracy or the bizarre and tragic fate of the Algerian revolution.

About half of the rooms one might stay at at the old school in Hellebaek are overlooking the forest – one of the few parts of Denmark where you will find the kinds of miles-long trails winding through the woods that people more commonly associate with Sweden or Norway. The other half of the rooms, like the one I was staying in during my various visits to the place throughout the month of April, overlook the Baltic Sea.

Whether you're overlooking the woods or overlooking the sea, it's a meditative place to be. But it was while I was looking across the Baltic at Sweden, which is as close as it gets to Denmark at that point, close enough to see some of the buildings in the Swedish town of Helsingborg, that I heard the news of the ship full of refugees that sank in the Mediterranean, with around a thousand dead. This prompted thoughts once again for me of the much luckier Danish refugees who fled to Sweden in 1943, and this time I wrote a song about them.

For Kristian von Svensson and I, the focus of the tour was Joe Hill. Specifically, this year is the 100^th anniversary of the execution by firing squad in the state of Utah of the Swedish poet, songwriter, cartoonist and labor organizer, Joel Emanuel Haglund (who later changed his name to Joe Hill, after getting blacklisted under his original name).

Kristian is another great Swedish songwriter, with a decidedly more traditional folky style, particularly in terms of his guitar playing. He is also a novelist, and possessed of an incredibly impressive knowledge of Scandinavian history, as well as history of lots of other places in the world. We knew we wanted to make Joe Hill a central theme of our gigs, but the way that ended up coming together was basically a happy accident. Without really coordinating our presentation – which was also half if Swedish (Kristian's half) and half in English – what we basically ended up doing every night was Kristian would focus on the man, his music, and a sampling of music from more recent times that was clearly influenced by the man, and I would mainly tell stories and sing songs that put the IWW of Joe Hill's day into some kind of historical context.

The last gig of our tour together was in Sweden's second city, the beautiful, canal-filled, coastal city of Gothenberg. (Like so many of Europe's most attractive cities, it was largely designed by Dutch engineers.) This show was well-recorded, and if you want to get a flavor of the way I worked Joe Hill into the thing, here's the set I did.

And for those of you who have organized events in the US, always in search of some kind of free or inexpensive venue to use, almost always a space that isn't quite what we might hope for, that isn't really Ours, let me tell you about the venues Kristian and I played in. In Gothenberg, the five-story building in the center of the city owned by the Communist Party, appropriately named Marx-Engels Huset (“huset” meaning either “house” or “building” or “center,” depending on the context). And at this gig, along with many Swedish communists, a Canadian one as well – Kevin Neish, who was in Sweden to help with the Swedish Ship to Gaza, getting their newly-purchased boat into shape for an ocean voyage from Sweden to the besieged Gaza Strip. Kevin came to the show in his impeccable Lenin outfit, much to the pleasure of many in attendance.

Other venues included Stockholm's chief punk rock social centers, the venerable Cafe 44 in the center of town, and the magnificent, multicolored plastic architectural achievement in the outskirts of town known as Cyklopen.

And in Gavle, Joe Hill's home town, we played in the back yard of the house Joe grew up in, which has for decades now been owned and run by the anarcho-syndicalist Swedish trade union, SAC.

Of the dozen or so gigs we did in Sweden, all the rest were in union-owned, union-run social centers known as ABF Huset – the adult education wing of the social democratic union movement, where Kristian and I were just another of an unending series of educational and cultural events hosted and funded by these centers.

Among the many conversations Kristian and I had during our many long drives through different parts of Sweden, was one about the state of Palestinian football. I had been reading about football, and Palestinian football in particular, on and off for months, trying to be inspired to write a song about the Palestine national football team, but with no luck. What should the hook line be? That's always the biggest hurdle for me.

Then Kristian let me in on a well-known expression within football circles – “the ball is round,” meaning, roughly, anything can happen. That was it, I thought, and then the song wrote itself, as they do, once you have a good hook line to center it all around. Soon afterward, Palestinian football was making international headlines, as FIFA was considering the possibility of disallowing Israel from participating in the association, as a way of punishing the Israeli government for their systematic practice of preventing Palestinian players from being able to get to matches.

And then back in Denmark. More venues of various kinds, with the same common theme of Left ownership – more or less permanent fixtures of the Danish Left. Oktober Books, owned and run by a small communist party in Copenhagen. A longstanding squatted social center near the center of town called Folkets Hus.

In three different parts of the country, adult education centers run by the Danish labor union, 3F. Another union-sponsored May 1 event in Arhus, and a punk rock social center in Alborg that gets subsidies from the Danish culture ministry for hosting punk rock shows – and the government funds them with the full knowledge that putting on Leftwing punk rock shows is primarily what they do!

I have had many friends in the US who have been involved with the Green Party and other small political parties, who have engaged in more or less symbolic opposition to the two dominant parties, rarely winning actual elections. In Europe, many of the people who were union organizers or teenage leftists of one kind or another are now older, and elected members of their local municipal, regional or national legislatures. From these positions they continue to organize events like they used to, except now sometimes they take place in the parliament or the city hall, as was the case with two of the gigs I did in Germany.

The first gig in Germany on this tour, in a union-owned venue a block from the main train station, was yet another crowd of close to 100 people, organized by a wonderful couple who are my self-proclaimed “biggest lesbian fans in Hamburg.” They've organized several of my best gigs in Hamburg over the years, and attended many others, but it was only on this visit that I learned of the family background of Katharina Jacob.

I was booked to play at a communist-run festival on May 9^th, but my friends mentioned to me that on the previous evening, May 8^th, there would be a walking tour of Hamburg organized by some other fine, upstanding reds. Many people in Germany are claiming as theirs the notion of Liberation – that is, liberation from fascism, the liberation that formerly Nazi-occupied countries throughout Europe celebrate, usually on some date in early May, depending. Though Germany lay in ruins, with millions and millions of Germans dead, May 8^th also marked the end of fascist tyranny, the date in 1945 when suddenly, being a Jew or a communist or even a social democrat was no longer a death sentence.

The walking tour involved bits of street theater, music, and brief talks about different events that had taken place in different parts of town – people who had been found and sent to concentration camps here, others who successfully passed on secret information there. A refugee detention center now, which was once a Nazi-run prison, where Katharina's grandmother was on a hunger strike. The legislature, where her grandfather, Franz, was once on the City Council.

In Switzerland I had another lovely gig at the massive squatted social center in Bern known as the Reitschule (it was once a school).  Folks who run the place were talking about how there's always a chronic shortage of volunteers willing to be involved with the nitty gritty of keeping a place like that going.  I heard this theme often.  The thing is, if they have just enough folks to do that work, the result can be having an institution like this, which keeps so much of a scene going.  A comparatively little effort can have very amplified results, with infrastructure beneath it all.

I also played for the first time in a punk pub called Walhalla, in the snow-capped mountain village of Davos. So now I can finally say that I have not only been to Hell (a very small town near Trondheim airport in Norway), but I have also played in Walhalla.

It was with great trepidation that I learned at some point while in continental Europe that my dear friend and longtime musical co-conspirator, John Baine, aka Attila the Stockbroker, had a spot of cancer on the lining of his bladder. By the time I saw him at the Glastonwick Beer and Punk Rock Festival that he's been running every year for twenty years now, it seemed the beloved, besieged National Health Service (NHS) medical practitioners at his local hospital had zapped the tumor successfully.

After singing in April at a protest in Copenhagen against Denmark's purchase of new fighter jets, another protest in Copenhagen against fracking, a protest in Stockholm against the Transatlantic Trade and Investment Protocol (TTIP), and another TTIP protest in southwestern Germany in May, my tour of Europe would end at the beginning of June, as previous European tours have ended in years past, singing at two different protest rallies happening around this year's big G8 meetings – now the G7, since Russia got kicked out for allegedly doing the same kind of shit that all the other G7 members do regularly. (That is, invading other countries without UN approval.)

The rally in Munich where I sang on June 4^th was organized by a wide variety of parliamentary and extraparliamentary groups including Die Linke, the Pirate Party, Attac and others, and involved 34,000 participants according to the police estimates. The town where the actual G7 summit was taking place was over an hour's drive from Munich, on the German-Austrian border. In actuality the drive took much longer than that, because of several police checkpoints which were set up on all the roads leading to the quaint little village of Garmish in every direction, starting quite a ways from the actual town, manned by cops who totaled, altogether during the summit, 17,000 in number.

I roll with the punches when it comes to singing at protests, because there's always a major element of unpredictability to these things, for all kinds of reasons. In the case of the event Attac and others were organizing in Garmish on June 6^th, I started out being less than hopeful about it, in terms of the prospects for me having much of an audience, because I've been around the block and know how these things often go. That is, I knew the beginning would likely be good, and it was. Despite all the fear-mongering and checkpoints everywhere, thousands of people managed to get to the town, the camp that was eventually allowed to be set up, and the rally. There were speakers and musicians. Then the march started.

I knew that the starting of the march, and the plans to have a sort of mini-festival afterwards, could go different ways. Often what happens is marches go on too long, and slowly peter out, with people leaving in dribs and drabs, so plans to have a thing after the march often just don't really pan out. Of course, another thing that's always likely to happen during a march, is kettling, mass arrests, and police brutality. This one did not involve mass arrests, but did involve a lot of kettling, and everything took hours longer than planned.

What was to be a 5 pm return to the stage became 7 pm or so, and when the remnants of the march did eventually make it back to the stage, what immediately followed was an absolutely torrential downpour, combined with copious bolts of lightning and blasts of thunder. I got two-thirds of the way through with one song before the decision was made to shut down the stage, for fear of electrocution (quite sensibly I'm sure). A band full of very nice guys from Bologna, Italy was to be the final act of the event, but after driving all the way to Germany from Bologna, they didn't end up playing a note.

The last supper of this tour was my first-ever meal at an Indonesian restaurant, in Eindhoven, one of the larger cities in the little country that once ruled colonial Indonesia, the Netherlands. I gave virtually no notice about my swing through town, but several friends were able to join me there, including the infamous Armand, who has once again been riding high with massive amounts of media publicity coming from all ends of the country, due in large part because a popular Dutch band called the Kik has just put out an album consisting entirely of songs of Armand's.

Except for one song, which is his Dutch version of my song, “the Commons.” Armand brought with him a magazine that featured his smiling face on the cover, and really well-done photos of his face within the magazine, accompanying the nine-page-long article about him.

“You're in the phone book,” were Armand's first words to me, as he sauntered in to the establishment, a while after the rest of us had gotten there. He then sat down and found the bit where he talks about me and “the Commons.”

In case you're wondering whether having a famous Dutch band record a Dutch version of one of your songs makes a difference in one's musical career, as far as I can tell, it doesn't. But then again, the album's not actually out yet, so who knows.

And then before I put my phone back into flight mode, sitting on the connecting flight that will finally take me home to Portland from a very long layover in Detroit's spacious, sterile airport, I find an email from the singer of the Scottish band, the Wakes, who have just put out a three-song album on Bandcamp, a benefit for folks in Bethlehem, the first track of which is easily the best version of “They're Building A Wall” that has ever been made.

Which fits in well with the infrastructure theme. That's the kind of infrastructure we don't want. We don't want fighter jets, fracking drills, or walled ghettos. We want punk rock social centers, union resorts, and commie book stores.